Removing stump of fence post

[Bert]

Does anybody know of a tool for removing the stump of a fence post from the concrete it is set in, or any reasonably easy way of doing it? Over the years, I have successfully removed the stump when the post has rotted at the base, but it has taken a lot of time and effort, a very long drill, a hammer, a crow bar, a chisel and a vacuum cleaner (to extract the bits from the hole). I can then re-use the hole and hammer in a new post. By the way, I believe that no amount of anti-rot treatment will work on this part of the post. The top part, usually dry does not rot (with no treatment) and the part in the concrete (always wet) does not rot (for a very long time), but the part where the post meets the concrete, that is alternately wet and dry, always rots. Does anyone disagree? Does anyone know of a way of preserving the fence post so that it will last indefinitely (or at least 30 years).

[landscaper2]

Dont waste your time and knuckles trying to extract a post from concrete - soul destroying! Dig down one side of the concrete until you get to the bottom, usually 450-600mm. Occasionally the concrete is weak and will break away easily. If the lump's a bit of a beast, best to hire a 900kw Kango at about �15.00 for the morning and it''ll be gone in 10 mins. You will then be able to extract the post and pop another in, or fix a concrete spur to your existing post using galvanised coach screws (this will last 30years+). If you are doing just one post, you can buy a couple 20kg bags of readymix concrete mixed with some of your hardcore. Sounds worse than it is - an hour's graft should do the trick. Rot needs the combitation of wet/dry/air, hence no rot in waterlogged ground. Pressure treated timber posts should last 10-15 years.

[heathfield]

Some ways of slowing rot are...
1) Before the days of treated timber, they'd dig a large hole, and use big stones around the post to support it. That way the post is surrounded by spaces, and isn't in direct contact with the soil.
2) Soak the end of the post in a 50/50 mix of creosote and used motor oil for some days. Such treated timber lasts an amazingly long time. (Though I don't know how well this works with creosote substitute).
3) If using concrete, bring it just above ground level, and slope the top surface away from the post.

[davidmarsden]

if the old post was not set in concrete with nails in the base( the nails act as an anchor in the concrete)
try screwing or nailing a piece of hard wood near the floor so you can use a pick axe or lever to raise the stump.
soak the new post bottoms in old engine oil

[Bert]

Thanks for those answers, guys. Landscaper2, you sound like an expert. I'm sure you are right, but my problem is that I am rubbish at DIY. I am sure that I would not get the new post set in vertically and in exactly the right place, whereas, if I can put the new post in the old hole, it is guaranteed to be right. David's idea would be excellent, but the post has broken flush with the concrete, so there is nothing to screw to. What somebody should invent/design is a really big screw with a deep thread, that can be attached somehow to a car jack, so the stump can be pulled with great force.

[landscaper2]

Interesting theory Bert, but fear that anything threaded into the wood would pull out before the old post moved. If you are worried about repositioning the post, as I said above, dig down one side of the block, break away that side, which will expose the post(may even loosen when you are halfway down) it will then virtually fall out leaving a nice 'post sized' hole for you to place the new one in and re-concrete. Honestly - much, much easier than trying to extract timber from concrete.

[bigmamma]

Excuse me Bert hun , could I just ask Landscaper2 something ?
I have a concrete washing-line post to get rid of , do you think someone will be able to shift it by digging down in the same manner as Berts fence post ?