ChatterBank1 min ago
Dressmakers dummy question
17 Answers
For those who can help...
Ive seen a few on ebay...however...if i didnt get an adjustable one...and bought a size 10/12 dummy...how would you make bigger sizes?
This might seen stupid..but just add inches on or something obviosuly?
Im sure ill learn this eventually but i just wanted to ask...does it really matter what size the dummy is xxx
Ive seen a few on ebay...however...if i didnt get an adjustable one...and bought a size 10/12 dummy...how would you make bigger sizes?
This might seen stupid..but just add inches on or something obviosuly?
Im sure ill learn this eventually but i just wanted to ask...does it really matter what size the dummy is xxx
Answers
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.you can buy special padding called batting that you build up on the body of the dummy until it matches you as near to exactly as possible. Ideally you should buy a dummy that is adjustable to your exact measurements if you want to get the best results. you can only pad up a certain amount though so people who do a lot of dressmaking for other people will often have a large and small dummy
30+ years ago I bought the 'Diana' dressmakers dummy and never regretted it. Yes, it was expensive and I see even now they are not cheap even on ebay. You get a better fit because you can, for example, measure the width across the back separately to the width across the front of the chest, you can accommodate a 'long' back of neck to waist measurement, you can adjust the waist independently of the hip etc. The hem marker is brilliant: hems are even and saves lots of time. I don't do a lot of dressmaking now, but if I did I would need the bigger model (!) but I would still go for the 'Diana' or something similar.
Thinking back to schooldays, which really is a long time ago, haha, the first item we had to make was an apron, for use in cookery lessons. This was 100% cotton gingham which was a good fabric to start with - quite forgiving of mistakes requiring unpicking, the squares help you keep in a straight line, and the pattern we used involved only straight edges and no curves. The next item was a blouse and we had to choose one pattern of about 3-4 on the list. Again, a cotton fabric, i.e not too flimsy, not too heavy; this project which introduced setting in sleeves and the attaching collars and the button hole. I seem to remember the pattern with the round collar sat better than the one with shirt-type straight collar. Then I think we must have done a skirt, which introduced the insertion of a zip. You don't realise it at the time of course, but this was a good introduction to the subject. Then I disliked being told what to do and how to do it! I suggest something similar. A coat, for example, is tricky in that the fabric is heavy, you have multi layers (interfacing, lining etc) and requires tailoring skills which is another ball game. Hope that helps x
I recommend using a pattern to start with and not making it up as you go along or even adjusting an existing garment. Even then there is a lot you can do to ensure a good fit. I belong to a dance team (no, don't dance - in the band!) and a couple of years ago the dancers decided they must have new dresses, so I helped. The pattern the leader chose involved no less than 33 pattern pieces per dress and the pattern assumed you were a big-boobs Barbie type. In reality, most dancers were mums to teenagers so as you can imagine time and gravity had taken their toll, and to have followed the instructions blindly would have been disastrous, so I made lots of extra measurements and adjusted the paper pattern accordingly, then used old sheets to make a prototype, did a fitting and tweaked yet again before committing to the dress itself. Was worthwhile :)
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