How should you handle fresh horseradish

A.� With care. Grow your own horseradish with caution, as it is rampant and self-seeds from the smallest piece left in the soil.

Handle the root with care, as once it is cut or grated it gives off more pungent fumes than onion, which is why it is one of the five bitter herbs included in the Jewish Passover festival.

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Q.� Where did it originate

A.� It is a member of the radish family and is thought to have originated in eastern Europe. The Romans discovered its culinary and medicinal usefulness and carried it with them through Europe. Medieval sailors mixed with juice with egg yolk to help prevent scurvy and also used it as an embrocation to soothe and warm muscles.

In his Herbal of 1597, Gerard describes it as an effective for treating sciatica and colic.

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Q.� When did it become popular in the UK

A.� Horseradish became popular in Britiain during the 17th Century, when it was eaten with meat to aid digestion.

The root contains asparagine, which acts as a diuretic and detoxifying agent, making horseradish a powerful remedy for ailments such as flu, sinusitis, skin problems and poor circulation.

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Q.� Which bit do you use

A.� It looks a bit like a large gnarled parsnip. The leaves resemble enormous dock leaves, which when young and tender can be used to spice up a salad. It is the tapering root that's most interesting.

The fresh root is quite often sold in supermarkets now, and many recipes are garnished with 'shavings of horseradish'.

It's a versatile ingredient, which combines well with vegetables, especially beatroot, and meat, seafood and in soups. It is particularly good with oily fish, smoked eels and trout, or in vinaigrettes.

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Q.� Can you give me a recipe with it

A.� In her Vegetable Book, Jane Grigson notes that in Germany, horseradish cream - grated horseradish mixed with lightly whipped double cream, salt, lemon juice and sugar - is a popular sauce to accompany asparagus. The cream is also delicious with pancakes or blinis.

Grate it into mayonnaise or cream sauces to give a distinctive kick, and don't forget to use it to liven up a Bloody Mary.

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By Katharine MacColl