Why is risotto rice different from other rice

A.� Risotto is one of the great Italian dishes which has become increasingly popular recently. There is actually no such thing as risotto rice. The Italians simply took the rice that grew successfully in their country and found the best way of preparing it. The rice might be arborio, carnaroli or vialone nano, but risotto is the style of cooking.

The rice crop is harvested in the same way as other cereal crop, except the Italians have to preserve the grain rather than crush it into flour. Once a combine harvester has gathered the crop from the fields, it has to be dried immediately.

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Q.� Where in Italy is the rice grown

A.� Much of the risotto rice exported to this country from the Po Valley in Italy. Legend has it that the daughter of the King of Naples was marrying the Duke of Milan, about 500 years ago, and the duke's Spanish cousin sent 13 bags of seed rice. As a crop it succeeded because northern Italy has everything rice needs: it's situation between the Alps and Appennines is perfect as it has its own micro-climate, with lots of water from the Alps flowing into the river Po.

The valleys are mostly flat and the rice fields held between ditches of water. The irrigation system was originally designed by Leonardo Da Vinci, and later refined by the 19th Century statesman Cavour.

Today, the production of the rice is very sophisticated, and the Italians have even managed to sell risotto rice to the Chinese who could hardly believe it was prepared in such a fashion.

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Q.� How is it made

A.� Italians say the secret to a good risotto is moisture. You can make risotto with almost anything - cheese, mushrooms, prawns etc - but the golden rule is that it must all be cooked together, a bit like paella. Other chefs say it should be creamy, almost like a soup, and the key is never to turn your back on it. The rice should retain a little bite to it.

It's often cooked with squid ink or truffles in Italy; some parts of northern Italy serve risotto colle rane (frog risotto), which is seen as a great delicacy.

Try Risotto al Gorgonzola, which is a creamy dish, made with a strong cheese. Purists say parmesan should never be served with this. You will need:

295g (10.5 oz) risotto rice

250g (9oz) Gorgonzola, cut in small pieces

4 shallots, very finely chopped

60g (2�oz) unsalted butter

1.2 litres of vegetable stock

150ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine

salt and pepper and fresh flat-leaf parsley

Put the shallots and the butter in a large heavy-based saucepan. Add a pinch of salt to release the moisture from the shallots and saute gently for around 7 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the stock in a separate pan to simmering point. Keep it simmering while the rice is cooking. Add the rice to the shallots and stir well, coating the grains in butter. Saute until the rice is partly translucent. Turn up the heat and pour over the wine. Let it bubble away - stirring constantly - then begin to add the simmering stock, a little at a time. The risotto should cook at a steady simmer. Continue adding the stock in small quantities. After 15 minutes, add the Gorgonzola. Stir constantly until the cheese has melted, then continue cooking the rice, adding the stock little by little. When the rice is al dente, season with plenty of pepper. Taste, and if necessary, season with salt. Add chopped parsley and serve immediately.

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By Katharine MacColl