ChatterBank1 min ago
Is This Switch Ok To Use To Switch On/off A Domestic Oven?
Hi all,
I need to add a switch into our kitchen oven's circuit.
It makes a very annoying noise (the clock) when it's not in use.
A stop-gap solution until we change it is to install a switch into the circuit.
It uses an ordinary plug behind the oven and I've installed what is basically an extension cable with a switch, mounting the switch in the cupboard next to it.
It says on the switch's box it's rated for 10A/250V.
I would think that this is definitely enough for the oven, but thought I'd check here.
This is our holiday house so I want to make sure it's right before leaving it installed. They told me in the DIY shop it would be enough but if someone could confirm it for me I'd be very grateful.
I have of course used the thickest mains cable they sold, and of course I've made sure all 3 cables continue (earth included).
Thanks!
I need to add a switch into our kitchen oven's circuit.
It makes a very annoying noise (the clock) when it's not in use.
A stop-gap solution until we change it is to install a switch into the circuit.
It uses an ordinary plug behind the oven and I've installed what is basically an extension cable with a switch, mounting the switch in the cupboard next to it.
It says on the switch's box it's rated for 10A/250V.
I would think that this is definitely enough for the oven, but thought I'd check here.
This is our holiday house so I want to make sure it's right before leaving it installed. They told me in the DIY shop it would be enough but if someone could confirm it for me I'd be very grateful.
I have of course used the thickest mains cable they sold, and of course I've made sure all 3 cables continue (earth included).
Thanks!
Answers
1 to 6 of 6
The current used on 250v mains is 4amps per kw . So it depends on the rating of the oven . If the oven is 2kw then it would use 8 amps fully on. If its consumption is higher than 2 kw then your swtch will not be adequate.
10:56 Mon 01st Apr 2013
Ah yes that makes sense.
I guess there's no way of knowing whether it's on a spur without seeing whether the fuse box has its own switch for just the oven and hob, right? And that means trial and error, seeing if the same fuse switch that controls the oven and hob also controls other plugs in the kitchen. Does that make sense?
Many thanks for your rapid response!
I guess there's no way of knowing whether it's on a spur without seeing whether the fuse box has its own switch for just the oven and hob, right? And that means trial and error, seeing if the same fuse switch that controls the oven and hob also controls other plugs in the kitchen. Does that make sense?
Many thanks for your rapid response!
Right, I've done some tests from the fusebox. The 2 sockets behind the oven (for the electrical hob and the oven) are controlled by a fuse switch in the fuse box that also controls the other sockets in the kitchen.
Logically this would indicate to me that they don't have their own spur. (the oven and hob).
Is that right?
Next I will pull out the oven again and see if I can see anything that would indicate its consumption.
Logically this would indicate to me that they don't have their own spur. (the oven and hob).
Is that right?
Next I will pull out the oven again and see if I can see anything that would indicate its consumption.
1 to 6 of 6
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