ChatterBank0 min ago
Kitchen Door Hinge Pulled Out Of Carcass
17 Answers
its a 'salice' hinge held in place by an allen screw into a nylon inset - this seems fine. towards the rear of the cabinet the hinge is fixed by a allen screw to a nylon bung that was glued into the carcass.
the door has been opened to far and pulled the bung out.
what is the best glue to use. the bung does not fit too snuggly, but it seems its always been that way.
thank you.
the door has been opened to far and pulled the bung out.
what is the best glue to use. the bung does not fit too snuggly, but it seems its always been that way.
thank you.
Answers
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The problem with gluing a bung into an oversize hole is you're relying only on the glue to hold the bung in place. The best way is to buy dowel rod larger then the bung, drill the door to suit the dowel and then glue that into place. Now you have a solid piece of wood to drill out to the right size for the bung and then reglue.
What you need, Mick, is a "thixotropic" carpenter's glue. It means that it foams and expands as it cures.............
http:// www.scr ewfix.c om/p/ev o-stik- polyure thane-w ood-adh esive-3 10ml/40 778
You'd need to hold the bung in place (maybe tape or a clamp) while it cures. Otherwise the pressure of the glue expanding will push the bung right out again.
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You'd need to hold the bung in place (maybe tape or a clamp) while it cures. Otherwise the pressure of the glue expanding will push the bung right out again.
"No Nails" is a good adhesive, but it's what's known as a "grab adhesive". It doesn't expand on curing. It is a good gap filler though, so I can't see why it wouldn't work, except that I wouldn't be confident that it will stick well enough to the nylon.
The great advantage with Thixotropics is that they need a tiny amount of damp to cure. If the porous surface is dampened slightly, then I'd expect the final joint to be almost unbreakable.
It's the glue we use to "biscuit-joint" strips of timber together to make up worktops, butcher's blocks etc.
The great advantage with Thixotropics is that they need a tiny amount of damp to cure. If the porous surface is dampened slightly, then I'd expect the final joint to be almost unbreakable.
It's the glue we use to "biscuit-joint" strips of timber together to make up worktops, butcher's blocks etc.
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