toilet plumbing

[tfg]

am going to replace my old 40 year loo for a modern one but as it's on the ground floor the waste goes through the floor. the distance between the outside wall and the waste hole is around 8 inches, when I look at modern loos the waste outlet on the loo is set too far to the rear for me to connect to my old waste in the ground. If I set the loo further forward so they mate, the cistern is away from the wall. what would a plumber do? I can only think of building a false wall for the cistern to back on to

[Clanad]

First, if you haven't already purchased your replacement toilet, check other manufacturers, since, at least here in the U.S., the discharge outlet varies in it's placement. You might find one that fits more to your liking.

Second, if that doesn't work, one can buy a 90 degree elbow specifically for moving the outlet a few inches one way or the other. Problem is, I suspect (if your house was int he U.S.) since you relate it's 40 years old the discharge or waste pipe is likely to be cast iron. Although you can cut it and move it, it's a heck of a job. If you happen to be fortunate enough that the waste pipe is PVC it should be and easier fix. A lt depends on what your bathroom floor is made of. If it's concrete or tile it becomes more problematic than if it's wooden framed.

Best of luck though!

[tfg]

thanks Clanad, we are in the U.K. and the house is not considered to be "old" yet but as you said the waste pipe could be cast iron and the floor is concrete so I am worried that a modern flexible coupling will be a different size to the old metal pipe in the ground.The current toilet has a wall fixed cistern with a connecting pipe flush, and I would like a new close coupled toilet fitted. I may have to stick with a wall fixed cistern but am worried about the waste connection

[buildersmate]

It isn't the easiest of jobs but a decent plumber will be able to sort it out for you. Old and new pipes are of different sizes but there are a range of (plastic) couplings produced that enable connection between the different systems. Often one of the most difficult jobs is removing the old coupling arrangements - these were sealed more 'solidly' than the modern sort of spigots. One needs a clean 'cut' to separate the old from new.
You are probably right that the best way (that avoids floor upheaval) is not to muck about with the position where the old pipework emerges from the floor. In which case, mounting the new unit away from the wall could be the best option. Look at various models and designs to check you have enough room to do this.

[wildwood]

I would definitely look around for a toilet bowl more suitable as clanad said, but if you've already got the toilet I would strongly advice against using an 90� angle for sewage waste for obvious reasons.
If there is not enough room under the floor for an 45� or less deviation it may be worth considering tackling the actual sewerpipe if access is not too difficult - it may be simpler than you think. You can get an PVC adapter that fits on the old earthenware pipes so it is easy to connect from there on.

[wildwood]

Oh dear, serves me right for going to have my brekkie while halfway through an answer.

[tfg]

just had another look at it, the waste pipe from the toilet to the floor is ceramic, it's part of the toilet mould, but as I don't know how it is joined to the sewer pipe in the concrete I don't feel confident enough to tackle it myself
wish you could upload pictures to this site as explanations would become more obvious, also wish my brother was a plumber and not a baker, oh well, I do know a good plumber so think it's time to hand this one over to the experts, thanks

[tezestwing]

Hi tfg you could try this http://www.wickes.co.uk/bin/connector called a space saver as you can see it goes back on its self but I dont think you will be able to move the pan back 8" as it will then stand part over the floor hole so preventing connection to dig out concrete to re-rout existing is a big job because you have to go so far down into the ground to make a connection onto the glazed pipe when I did a job recently like this I had to construct a box from floor to just over lid of the cistern and a bit wider also then tiled it then put the unit up to that still ad to use the space saver connector though hth Tez

[tezestwing]

sorry tfg the full liink got missed some how try this http://www.wickes.co.uk/Soil+Vent/Space-Saver- WC-Connector/invt/435193?htxt=6YwZAISW1i5OgIud ElUVh4%2BI3KMD0YlK3aWM7EPIBJQVvJOxcInvY1H4JwBc SZ2MIfCIMv2VNq1z%0AWJ9bQPNXrg%3D%3D hth tez

[The Builder]

I think all the above contributions are spot on. I'd also advise you not to try to alter the collar position (the bit that's in the concrete floor)..........don't go there LOL
I think you almost had the solution in your question. My preference would be to build a simple studwork wall of timber and MDF (to save you having to do any plastering).
Don't put the new cistern infront of it, but inside it........that is, a concealed cistern.
Fit a back to wall type of WC pan right up tight to the MDF.
Position the new wall far enough away from the back wall to house the cistern......AND enable you to fit a simple 90 degree pan connector from the WC to the drain collar.
Looks great, and so much easier to keep clean.
Good luck........