ChatterBank0 min ago
Damp proofing
Answers
No best answer has yet been selected by hartley. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.With the house did you get proof/insurance of general works done etc. I once owned a Victorian ground floor flat that I then put up for sale. During the sale process one of the surveys done by the potential buyer found the external walls to be damp. On contacting my leasholder he mentioned that there was a 25yrs damp-proof "guarantee" but it had expired a couple of years earlier. You can immagine how furious I was as I then had to spend almost � 2000 to re do all the wall plus redecorating etc. So check first if you have an insurance somewhere, maybe the previous owners may know. If not, you can call some professionals, it is normally free of charge for a quotation and they will be able to advise you. If you plan to deck the area, you need to leave some space between the walls and the decked floor so air goes through. Not sure if you need to re-do the damp course though.
Hartley, the level of the DPC is important. It should be a minimum of 150mm (two course) above the ground level adjacent to the wall.
This is to stop rainwater bouncing off the ground and going over it, (concentrating water at a specific level), as you mention in your post. But if you re-do the DPC higher up this is also very likely to cause damp problems especially if you have solid walls (which you probably will have). This is because the damp will travel through the wall and affect the inside surface/plaster etc. That is the reason why walls are built with cavities nowadays
Bookworth, I don't want to be pedantic but thousands of houses have floor joists below the DPC level, but different construction methods mean that they are safe from rising damp.
Obviously some will be damp, but this is usually because the joists have been built into the walls below the DPC (allowing damp to strike the timbers) whereas latterly the joists were placed about an inch from the walls and supported on "sleeper" walls which should have had some form of damp proofing between the brickwork and the bottom of the joists.