ChatterBank1 min ago
Flooring
18 Answers
Quick question - I'm tiling a floor that has dodgy floorboards so obviously I need to put wood down first. Do I use hardboard, plywood or what? The plywood looks right, but it seems too thick since with the tiles on top it won't be giving my doors much clearance....
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.Make sure all the floorboards are screwed down and not moving / squeaking. If any boards have warped into u-shapes plane them so they have a new flat surface. If you are using ceramic / stone floor tiles you need to bear in mind the additional thickness of the backing ply, adhesive bed,and the tile - it is likely that you will need to remove your doors and get an amount cut off the bottom. I would use exterior grade 4mm ply but some might recommend thicker for floor tiling. Also, I would screw the ply sheets to the floor rather than nailing as gradual flexing of the floor can make nail heads pop up, splitting your tiles.
Better yet, use the "backer board", made from cement. A little more effort to cut and lay (they have to be screwed down with special screws... one every 8 square inches) but will support your tiles forever. Probably half again as much cost than ply wood but a whole lot better for a good finished job...
You'll only need the 1/4 to 1/2 inch thickness if your sub floor is reasonably sound...
You'll only need the 1/4 to 1/2 inch thickness if your sub floor is reasonably sound...
This is something the Pros use Karen ........... doesn't usually need any ply/hardboard.........
http://www.floorheati...coupling-membrane.php
http://www.floorheati...coupling-membrane.php
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You have to decide how much 'spring' there is in the floor .. and the total spans involved. Chipboard panels will be springy .. solid timber is ok. Neither are likely to be OK on their own.
If the floor springs, the tile grouts (and sometimes the tiles) will crack soon enough. If normal boards, I would probably ply it, using C/S screws, then tile on top. This will obviously raise the level by as much as 18mm with tiles, so you will always have a thresh-hold/door/skirting problem.
You have to decide how much 'spring' there is in the floor .. and the total spans involved. Chipboard panels will be springy .. solid timber is ok. Neither are likely to be OK on their own.
If the floor springs, the tile grouts (and sometimes the tiles) will crack soon enough. If normal boards, I would probably ply it, using C/S screws, then tile on top. This will obviously raise the level by as much as 18mm with tiles, so you will always have a thresh-hold/door/skirting problem.