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folding work bench and large guarded saw
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I have a ton of wood left over from my renovation which I have been chopping with an axe to put on the woodburner. This can be quite time consuming. And looking at some of the roof timbers impossible to consider with an axe.
Even though it is an initial over lay instead of getting a chainsaw (which I would not be confident to use alone) I am considering a bench, and a saw I can attach, the saw would be sturdy an have various safety guards. I hope to get one that can cut small 2x2 upto very large original roof timbers (don't know the size off the top of my head). I can also use this set up over the coming years to cut up logs I fell myself if I bring them home in longer lengths.
So I was looking for advice before going to the DIY shop as to what to look for and things a might need, being a bench/saw newbie, ideally I would like a saw that can cut a maximum diameter I will ever need to future proof myself but still be able to attach to a folding bench, sounds like a bit of a catch 22 (size of cut v's size of saw)
Thanks in advance for any help.
Even though it is an initial over lay instead of getting a chainsaw (which I would not be confident to use alone) I am considering a bench, and a saw I can attach, the saw would be sturdy an have various safety guards. I hope to get one that can cut small 2x2 upto very large original roof timbers (don't know the size off the top of my head). I can also use this set up over the coming years to cut up logs I fell myself if I bring them home in longer lengths.
So I was looking for advice before going to the DIY shop as to what to look for and things a might need, being a bench/saw newbie, ideally I would like a saw that can cut a maximum diameter I will ever need to future proof myself but still be able to attach to a folding bench, sounds like a bit of a catch 22 (size of cut v's size of saw)
Thanks in advance for any help.
Answers
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.Ah, I'd quite fancy one of those, Chuck.
Mrs What. That would be ideal. I generate a lot of used timber. Anything that can't be used again, I cut up with a good quality electric chainsaw. A sawbench would need a blade of something like 400mm/16" to do what you need. You'd also find the timber very unwieldy.............. thus dangerous :o(
Mrs What. That would be ideal. I generate a lot of used timber. Anything that can't be used again, I cut up with a good quality electric chainsaw. A sawbench would need a blade of something like 400mm/16" to do what you need. You'd also find the timber very unwieldy.............. thus dangerous :o(
Yes. I do. Around £100 for something like a Makita. Very safe to use. The timber sits still while you cut. As I said above, Manhandling long lengths onto a table with a huge blade whipping around could be dangerous.
Have a Google for "chainsaw training". There are a couple of good providers not far from you. Tell them what you need to do. You'll find the courses (sometimes just one-day) are concerned mostly with garden/agricultural. They still contain basic safety/use/maintenance though.
Seriously, that would give you all the (safe) confidence you need.
Have a Google for "chainsaw training". There are a couple of good providers not far from you. Tell them what you need to do. You'll find the courses (sometimes just one-day) are concerned mostly with garden/agricultural. They still contain basic safety/use/maintenance though.
Seriously, that would give you all the (safe) confidence you need.
to be honest anything above 6 x 2 would be almost impossible on a table saw from a DIY store.....here you would be looking at an industrial saw at a high expense......of course you could cut one side and turn the wood over and cut through from the other side and get double the thickness of cut, but its not just the cut depth to consider, its the strength of the motor.....with a band saw you could get a deeper cut but even then to go above 4 x 4 on a DIY machine would be a struggle.
thanks brilliant.
I was going to ask about the more expensive saw horse which looks similar to the one you link to chuck is has a plain metal cover as apposed to a red cover.
Only I don't know which saw horse to buy they both look the same to me and which chain saw to get, electric or petrol. I would be cutting right next to the house to cable for electric no problem but it does mean if i get more confident I can't take it up the woodland easy. But could always re invest in a petrol at a later stage?
Thanks guys
I was going to ask about the more expensive saw horse which looks similar to the one you link to chuck is has a plain metal cover as apposed to a red cover.
Only I don't know which saw horse to buy they both look the same to me and which chain saw to get, electric or petrol. I would be cutting right next to the house to cable for electric no problem but it does mean if i get more confident I can't take it up the woodland easy. But could always re invest in a petrol at a later stage?
Thanks guys
If youre any good at diy then you can make a decent saw horse from your spare roofing timbers..6" x 3" is best.Make some straps from 1"chain and a good spring on the end and fix them to the horse.
If youre serious about feeding the woody then get a Stihl chainsaw about 16"bar..........and some Quality training...and some Quality ppe
Look out for nails in old timber.....the chain will last well on timber but if you touch a nail..or soil...it will need sharpening...good look and watch your limbs!!
If youre serious about feeding the woody then get a Stihl chainsaw about 16"bar..........and some Quality training...and some Quality ppe
Look out for nails in old timber.....the chain will last well on timber but if you touch a nail..or soil...it will need sharpening...good look and watch your limbs!!
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