Taking A Radiator Out

[Marijn]

Is it ok to totally remove a radiator. I have a radiator in my downstairs toilet that is rusty at the bottom, and the room is so small anyway that it's really not needed. Can it be totally removed without affecting the central heating i.e. does it need to be there so that water can flow through it to reach the other radiators? A friend has told me that it can be removed, but I don't understand how the water/heat will then reach the other radiators. can someone please tell me.

[The Builder]

Rads are connected "in parallel" Notters. That is, the flow and return both continue past the rad on to the next one. Flow & return are branched off to the rad, so removing the rad and shutting off the valves will not affect the circuit.

You're maybe thinking they are connected "in series".

[SlackAlice]

Quickest way to check is to close both valves on the radiator to see if there is any effect on the remaining radiators. If no effect then you can remove the radiator and cap-off the pipe ends.

[RATTER15]

I think that it would be fine, the two pipes you see going into the radiator are just spurs off a main line that will not be interrupted by the removal of that radiator.

I think The Builder will be along shortly and confirm what I said.

[RATTER15]

ok so I was beaten to it! lol

[SlackAlice]

both better answers than mine as well ☺

[Marijn]

Thank you very much, it sounds like it's safe to do then. The plumber turned off the valves last time he was here. He said that if they leaked at the bottom, due to the rust I would only get a flood the size of the contents of the radiator and not a whole load of water otherwise. Does that make sense? If the radiator is removed will they need to leave the pipes and valves sticking out of the floor, or is there a safe way of cutting them off at floor level and plugging them up? or perhaps thay don't need plugging up?

[SlackAlice]

If the radiator is removed and no longer needed then you can remove the pipework and cap it off, either at floor level or below dependant on your floor layout.

[The Builder]

If they're cut off, they will have to be capped. Usually done under the floorboards. The system would have to be drained down. At least it could get a good flushing out at the same time, and re-filled complete with inhibitor.

Or........ if it's a large complex system, I often use a freezing kit to freeze the two pipes, cap them off, and let it thaw.

[Marijn]

Thanks again for your answers. It's a concrete floor, so will I need the pipes just sticking out from the floor a bit, if so, I don't mind that. Also I don't want the radiators flushed out as they're old and they might not be able to stand it (I think that's what the plumber told me, if I've understood him correctly). can I have the radiator removed without too much hassle?

[The Builder]

Yes of course. Capping off without draining will mean the plumber cutting the pipe and quickly shoving on a push-fit stop-end ........ with the system still live!!
It has been done........ prepare for water though!

[The Builder]

On second thoughts...... there may be enough pipework sticking up to allow a freezer collar to be put on. No flood in that case then.

[Marijn]

There's about ten centimetres of pipe sticking up from floor to radiator. Would it be cheaper/easier to replace it with a cheap radiator? Would that be cheaper than a heated towel rail (even though I don't need any heat in there anyway). I don't want the room to look messy as I will be seling the house in a couple of years anyway, and want potential buyers to like the look of it. Thank you so much for your answers so far.

[Marijn]

I've just phoned the plumbers and the lady who answered the phone said she didn't know what was cheapest, a towel rail/ a radiator/or capping pipes off. She said a plumber would come round to have a look. I really want to have a rough idea before they come, so that I'm not bamboozled (if that's the right word). I really worry about this sort of thing/making these decisions on my own. Thank you all very much for all the input so far.

[The Builder]

Notters. Considering that you'll be selling. I would cover myself by fitting a new rad. The new buyers may want one.
This won't be your size, but you can see how cheap they are. Although plumbers do tend to mark them up.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/kudox-premium-type-11-single-panel-single-convector-radiator-white-300x600/76575

Cheaper than a towel rail, and a lot less fuss and work than capping off.

[Marijn]

Thank you so much, The Builder. I'll just tell them I want a replacement radiator. The current one is 60 cm wide by 61cm high. I don't want a big one anyway because I don't want the radiator turned on in there. It's such a small room and the radiator is right next to the toilet. There's a big hall radiator just outside the door anyway. I think the lady on the phone should've known the basics about what would be the cheapest, she didn't sound a very friendly sort. Thanks again :-)

[The Builder]

http://www.screwfix.com/p/kudox-premium-type-11-single-panel-single-convector-radiator-white-600x600/48081

:o)

[Marijn]

That's brilliant, The Builder. Thank you. As that rad is £26, how much do you think the plumber will charge me for it (just the radiator). I assume the labour is £50 an hour. By the way that rad in the picture said it was a single, but it was thick. The current rad is the same i.e. 6cm thick, but I have an old rad upstairs in a bedroom that is really thin; don't they do those anymore?

[The Builder]

Well... I wish I could charge £50 an hour ;o(
I assume you must be in London/S.East?

Anyway.. that pic, I think is of a double rad. The single panels are thinner.

Modern ones are metric. Older Imperial rads might need a bit of alteration to the pipework. The way to tell is... modern rad 600mm, and Imperial rad 24".
It shouldn't take him more than an hour at the most. Depending on whether new brackets need to be fixed to the wall, and maybe pipework alteration.

A decent handyman can do this easily. Ask around for someone. It could save some money.

[Marijn]

Thanks, The Builder. I live in South East Essex. The plumber told me last time that they charge £50 an hour. How much should I expect to pay for a £26 radiator, for example. Thank you so much for your help so far. I really appreciate it, and am not taking it for granted that you'll find the time to answer each time. By the way, I like the two plumbers themselves, just not sure they're the cheapest. I feel comfortable with them in the house, which is hard to find.

[The Builder]

Not at all Notts :o)
I checked with Wickes. They're £30.90. Your plumbers may have their own preference for a more expensive, possibly even better quality rad.
Certainly, don't pay more than £50.
Cost isn't everything, especially in this business. I would go with whom you are most comfortable with. The "trade" is notoriously full of duckers and divers.
I'm certainly not the cheapest around by far, but I do often have the keys to some rather nice houses. So I think trust is important. :o)))