Shopping & Style0 min ago
Wood Burning Stove
6 Answers
Hi all,
May now be taking the plunge and buying a wood burner stove. advice needed here, as i have been on ebay and there is a huge difference in price, so are there some rubbish cheap ones? also, what sort of KW output would I need for a 20ft by 15 through lounge diner? Also, We have no chimney, but we do have a mock firplace, so the idea is to put the pipe out through the wall ( i asked bulider about this before and He said He would have gone through the floor above and out of the roof, but we are not that daring) so is the required pipe better in silver or black? can it be boxed in on the outside wall as our house is rendered and painted.
Thanks all.
annie.
May now be taking the plunge and buying a wood burner stove. advice needed here, as i have been on ebay and there is a huge difference in price, so are there some rubbish cheap ones? also, what sort of KW output would I need for a 20ft by 15 through lounge diner? Also, We have no chimney, but we do have a mock firplace, so the idea is to put the pipe out through the wall ( i asked bulider about this before and He said He would have gone through the floor above and out of the roof, but we are not that daring) so is the required pipe better in silver or black? can it be boxed in on the outside wall as our house is rendered and painted.
Thanks all.
annie.
Answers
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Just remember there are some complex building requirements for flues
Check here
http://
You *must* have suffient air ventillation so you might need an air brick or two put in depending on size.
Secondly the if the flue goes straight out the back there's a maximum of 15 cm before it has to go vertically so you may have to have the flue go up and out at a 45 degree bend
The flue needs to be insulated so that gasses don't condense
And it needs to vent a certain hight above the roof as I recall
Anyway it's all in that doc - easy to get it wrong if your builder's not a fireplace specialist - you might want to print it out and talk it over with him if you've not seen the regs before.
Also check with your insurer that having a wood burner won't put up your premiums before you jump in
Check here
http://
You *must* have suffient air ventillation so you might need an air brick or two put in depending on size.
Secondly the if the flue goes straight out the back there's a maximum of 15 cm before it has to go vertically so you may have to have the flue go up and out at a 45 degree bend
The flue needs to be insulated so that gasses don't condense
And it needs to vent a certain hight above the roof as I recall
Anyway it's all in that doc - easy to get it wrong if your builder's not a fireplace specialist - you might want to print it out and talk it over with him if you've not seen the regs before.
Also check with your insurer that having a wood burner won't put up your premiums before you jump in
I know that "you get what you pay for" is a rather tired expression, but never more true than with woodburners. There are plenty of diabolical, cheap steel burners around. Imported from China and the Far East, they look like the real thing, but are good only for workshop stoves.
It's a huge subject these days. You only have to Google to find the best names. I would certainly go to an established dealer for advice. More than one if possible, to look at different makes.
Jake's link gives all the tech. stuff you need. The size (output) will depend on how you plan to use it, as well as room size. eg On its own, or with other heating?
Below a certain size (4 kw I think) you won't need a vent for air supply.
Through the wall is fine if you have a gable end. For a "hipped" roof, the height of the flue-pipe may begin to look silly. Something to think about.
Twin-wall, insulated flue (stainless steel) is very expensive. Cost that out. You have the alternative of building an external masonry flue and chimney stack.
With a Twin-wall pipe on the outside, it can be left, or easily boxed in and rendered. Boxing-in with timber frame and render is much cheaper and quicker than heaving concrete blocks around.
If you go for a large burner, put the air intake vent either under the unit (ducted to outside), or through the wall right behind it. Don't let them put a vent on the other side of the room... the draught will be terrible.
W/burners are rather like cars, or anything else...... lots of research :o)
It's a huge subject these days. You only have to Google to find the best names. I would certainly go to an established dealer for advice. More than one if possible, to look at different makes.
Jake's link gives all the tech. stuff you need. The size (output) will depend on how you plan to use it, as well as room size. eg On its own, or with other heating?
Below a certain size (4 kw I think) you won't need a vent for air supply.
Through the wall is fine if you have a gable end. For a "hipped" roof, the height of the flue-pipe may begin to look silly. Something to think about.
Twin-wall, insulated flue (stainless steel) is very expensive. Cost that out. You have the alternative of building an external masonry flue and chimney stack.
With a Twin-wall pipe on the outside, it can be left, or easily boxed in and rendered. Boxing-in with timber frame and render is much cheaper and quicker than heaving concrete blocks around.
If you go for a large burner, put the air intake vent either under the unit (ducted to outside), or through the wall right behind it. Don't let them put a vent on the other side of the room... the draught will be terrible.
W/burners are rather like cars, or anything else...... lots of research :o)
One of the major drawbacks of woodburners is that they really only heat the room they are in. We have friends who have a woodburner that consumes about 3 tonnes each winter, Most of the house is freezing and the stove goes out overnight. Get one with a boiler that can supply hot water and run radiators.
thank you for your very informative answers, put me right off. will probably have the oil central heating improved instead!!! Anyone know why oil boilers are so expensive? much dearer than gas ones, but there seems to be nothing inside ours, just a motor of some sort. Are second hand ones worth buying?
annie.
annie.
Annie, gas boilers only have to light a flame. Oil ones are more like a diesel engine. A tad simplistic, I know, but that's part of it.
They tend not to last as long as gas either. A second-hand one will be so for a reason usually. Unless it's relatively new, where someone has upgraded the size of their boiler, I wouldn't go for one. The fitting costs are much the same as new.
They tend not to last as long as gas either. A second-hand one will be so for a reason usually. Unless it's relatively new, where someone has upgraded the size of their boiler, I wouldn't go for one. The fitting costs are much the same as new.
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