Donate SIGN UP

Any Sparkys Around? Generator Question.

Avatar Image
jon1968 | 14:43 Tue 24th Dec 2013 | Home & Garden
14 Answers
I’m getting a generator for my panicing parents for occasional emergency use. I want to hard wire in the sockets indoors so things like the fridge/ freezer, tv’s can just be unplugged from the house wiring and plugged into the auxiliary sockets situated next to them rather than have flex all over the place when needs arise.
Would it be OK to run a length of cable from the generator outside into the loft and just drop cable from the loft to the sockets (3 twin sockets) via junction boxes at the appropriate point or do you have to daisy chain the cable or make a circuit?
This is the genny http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wolf-WP3500LR-3200Watt-6-5HP-4-KVA-Petrol-Generator-FREE-P-P-/281205794760 , which has two 240v output sockets. Need to power 1 tv on one socket, 1 tv, a digi box & a stereo on another socket, and an under the counter fridge and under the counter freezer on the last socket. Would I be better off running two cables from the genny or will one do?

Many thanks for any help.
Gravatar

Answers

1 to 14 of 14rss feed

Avatar Image
One radial circuit to the loft. Assuming the generator has a 13A fuse to protect everything, then a 1.5mm flex cable (extension lead) will do. Split this three ways in the loft with more 1.5mm flex. Or, do the whole thing in 2.5mm Twin & Earth.
17:17 Tue 24th Dec 2013
Are you intending to have a separate set of sockets supplied only by the genny?
You should not attempt to connect your genny to the existing sockets as serious conseqences could result, not least of which could be the death of a line repairman.
The genny is more than adequate to power the appliances you mention and one cable should do the job as long as it is rated at a current higher than the overload trip on the genny. You can daisy chain them as long as the cable is adequate for the load at all points.
Two comments based on a fair bit of experience with generators around residential boats jon.

First this will only run very basic appliances like lights, a kettle or a toaster. For anything else that has a digital processor - and you'd be surprised at what does, certainly the tvs, digibox and stereo, quite possibly the fridge and freezer. And they aren't cheap.

Secondly, although 4 kva sounds a lot, in practice its wise to allow an extra 25% of oomph, so to run a notional household's worth of electrical stuff I'd be looking at 6 kva

You should also look at wiring a changeover switch directly into the consumer box.
^doh! sorry, lost in edit, should read:

First this will only run very basic appliances like lights, a kettle or a toaster. For anything else that has a digital processor - and you'd be surprised at what does, certainly the tvs, digibox and stereo, quite possibly the fridge and freezer- it just won't work. You need a short sine wave generator and they aren't cheap.
Wiring into a consumer unit requires a level of expertise that jon doesn't have otherwise he wouldn't have asked the question. It needs a qualified electrician to install a double pole break before make changeover switch, otherwise things could go horribly wrong.
This does appear to be a sine wave generator, not an inverter generator.
Then we may just have to disagree on this jom. Although it looks like good general kit for the money, from the spec (I can' see anything about sine waves) I simply don't think it will do what jon says he wants it to.
I wired in a changeover switch for someone recently, for a generator. This means that the whole house can be powered from it (up to the limitation of the generator output.)

If you don't want to go to those lengths, then a single cable would be fine for your three (dedicated) sockets. A radial circuit would be perfectly alright. No need for a ring circuit.

These sockets must be for generator use only. They must not have any electrical connection to the house supply or circuits.
humber, I haven't had any problems running anything off my bog standard 5 KVAgenerator, it is the usual type with self exciting field coils. One day I'll stick an oscilloscope on it to see what it does put out..I ran my entire house off it for a while it last winter, 2 freezers, fridge, lights, TV, satellite decoder, broadband box laptops, printer, absolutely no problems.
Question Author
Thank you everyone for your help, I have no intention of interfering with the existing house circuits the at all, I'm intending to have separate hard wired sockets connected only to the genny. So, if the power goes out, plug the bits and bobs into the dedicated genny sockets and fire it up. I’m just trying to preempt having flex cables all over the place.
Lighting and kettles etc are not an issue, have emergency lamps/lanterns, hob kettle and whatnot all to hand.
I’m really just trying to establish if I need to daisy chain or if I can splice into one length of TCE with junction boxes in the loft.
Thanks again.
One radial circuit to the loft. Assuming the generator has a 13A fuse to protect everything, then a 1.5mm flex cable (extension lead) will do.
Split this three ways in the loft with more 1.5mm flex.

Or, do the whole thing in 2.5mm Twin & Earth.
Question Author
Thank you so much Mr Builder, I've plenty of 2.5 cable so I'll over engineer.
I would go with TB for method....but bear in mind what humber is saying as the output from some generators can be detrimental to fragile equipment.
Question Author
Thank you BrightSpark, and based on Humbersloops experience & advice I did email the company to confirm if the generator is suitable for my needs or not (still waiting for a reply). What specification should I be looking for?

1 to 14 of 14rss feed

Do you know the answer?

Any Sparkys Around? Generator Question.

Answer Question >>

Related Questions

Sorry, we can't find any related questions. Try using the search bar at the top of the page to search for some keywords, or choose a topic and submit your own question.