Technology1 min ago
Up 'n' Over Door Security
13 Answers
Hi Chaps
I've got a new garage with an up 'n' over front door, which seems to have a patheticly carp lock incorporated in the handle.
I'd like to secure the door from the *inside* so that it just cannot be opened at all from the outside - I have access to the garage from a rear door & don't routinely need the front to be opened.
The extra locking needs to be padlocked (or equivalent) so that anyone accessing the garage via the rear door still can't open the front without a key.
All ideas/products/suggestions welcome.
[ regular readers will guess that my Kawasaki Z1000SX is going to be over-wintered in said garage and needs to be safe from wandering scumbags - it will be locked and chained and immobilised, but ... ]
Cheers
D xx
I've got a new garage with an up 'n' over front door, which seems to have a patheticly carp lock incorporated in the handle.
I'd like to secure the door from the *inside* so that it just cannot be opened at all from the outside - I have access to the garage from a rear door & don't routinely need the front to be opened.
The extra locking needs to be padlocked (or equivalent) so that anyone accessing the garage via the rear door still can't open the front without a key.
All ideas/products/suggestions welcome.
[ regular readers will guess that my Kawasaki Z1000SX is going to be over-wintered in said garage and needs to be safe from wandering scumbags - it will be locked and chained and immobilised, but ... ]
Cheers
D xx
Answers
Best Answer
No best answer has yet been selected by sunny-dave. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.Locking garage door bolts?
http:// www.diy -tips.c o.uk/ga rage-do or-secu rity/
http://
Why don't you install (have installed) an electrically powered garage door opener. Reasonably priced (around $200 here in the U.S.) they lock automatically when down. It's near impossible to open when down and locked… seen here: http:// www.its tactica l.com/i ntellic om/phys ical-se curity/ top-10- garage- door-se curity- tips-to -preven t-break -ins/
And here: http:// www.new s4jax.c om/news /thief- can-ope n-your- garage- door-in -6-seco nds/258 15056
Besides it's very comfortable to be able to open the garage door sitting in your car while it's pouring down rain...
And here: http://
Besides it's very comfortable to be able to open the garage door sitting in your car while it's pouring down rain...
does the top of the door have rollers that run in a track? (a long time since i saw one from the inside) if so can't you just drill one or both tracks and put a nut and bolt with a large head or plenty of washers through behnd the rollers to stop the door being moved? or even a padlock, may need one with a long shank depending on the thickness of the track.
Many times I have been asked to secure a up and over door .. If you think like a criminal then the answers are obvious ..and believe it or not, the simple things are the best.
If you asked me to get through an u/o door (assuming it's metal) my first choice of tool would be a spade or a crowbar. I'm afraid I have fitted plenty of the locks that Buenchico has shown in the link and if the burglar has a lever, they will just prise the door away from the frame and the bolt pops out of the sleeve within seconds. The metal doors tend to be thin sheet metal and are fairly useless as far as security is concerned.
Think more along the lines of 3 lengths of 4" x 2" across the back of the door extending as far as the frame will allow. You would then need to fashion steel brackets that the wood can be dropped into.
As a belt and braces approach .. drill clearance holes through the battens into the frame while the wood is in place. Get some 5" bolts and just pop them in the holes...even that will keep me out.
Top it off with 2 eye bolts and a padlock at each corner and you have Fort Knox. I'm guessing you have anchor bolts drilled into the floor for the chassis lock ?
Not to forget .. two 5 lever mortice locks in the rear door fitted 20" up and 20" down.
If you are anything like my neighbour who has 3 bikes .. dry, wet and a mx. you will want to protect your investment.
The easiest door to open is a partially opened door .. so your challenge is to stop that door being partially opened in the first place.
The thing is .. if someone comes prepared .. you wont stop them. But a number of simple hidden measures, may well put them off.
If you asked me to get through an u/o door (assuming it's metal) my first choice of tool would be a spade or a crowbar. I'm afraid I have fitted plenty of the locks that Buenchico has shown in the link and if the burglar has a lever, they will just prise the door away from the frame and the bolt pops out of the sleeve within seconds. The metal doors tend to be thin sheet metal and are fairly useless as far as security is concerned.
Think more along the lines of 3 lengths of 4" x 2" across the back of the door extending as far as the frame will allow. You would then need to fashion steel brackets that the wood can be dropped into.
As a belt and braces approach .. drill clearance holes through the battens into the frame while the wood is in place. Get some 5" bolts and just pop them in the holes...even that will keep me out.
Top it off with 2 eye bolts and a padlock at each corner and you have Fort Knox. I'm guessing you have anchor bolts drilled into the floor for the chassis lock ?
Not to forget .. two 5 lever mortice locks in the rear door fitted 20" up and 20" down.
If you are anything like my neighbour who has 3 bikes .. dry, wet and a mx. you will want to protect your investment.
The easiest door to open is a partially opened door .. so your challenge is to stop that door being partially opened in the first place.
The thing is .. if someone comes prepared .. you wont stop them. But a number of simple hidden measures, may well put them off.