Quizzes & Puzzles20 mins ago
Driveway Side Wall
13 Answers
Hello Peeps :) so we are looking at ordering all the material for the driveway. If you look in this picture there is a wee wall on the right. We are choosing some bricks that match the drive and will rebuild it. My OH is a bit purplexed how to do this. Should the bricks be 100% level with a spirit level or do you think it will look ok if it isnt flat and follows the drive steepness. https:/ /imgur. com/S8p iAj1
I always remember doing our kitchen we made sure everything was level despite the house but what about this wall? Also will it require a foundation?
I always remember doing our kitchen we made sure everything was level despite the house but what about this wall? Also will it require a foundation?
Answers
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.THis is what we are paving it with btw https:/ /www.ca storama .fr/pav e-antin ea-nuan ce-brun -13-3-x -13-3-c m-ep-6- cm/3389 9798927 77_CAFR .prd
Something else for you to think about, UK.
I rather like the stone used in the dwarf wall. This is entirely personal, but I would just rebuild the wall using the stone again.
It would complement those pavers nicely. It's a lovely rural setting, and I'm not a fan of modern brick. I always call it the "Health Centre" look, especially when the chosen pavers are nicely subdued and rustic.
Rebuilding would mean that I would throw away the level and keep that "random" look that the stone gives you. Trying to level it up would be unnecessary.
But... your question: if you use any modern brick, even rustic, it should always be laid horizontal and level.
The very nature of continuous straight lines in the brick joints (horizontally, and vertically) tend to make it look awkward if they run with the adjacent slope. It would, of course, mean breaking the wall into sections, with one end higher than the other. Nothing wrong with that, but it means having a "stepped" wall along the length of the drive.
A long length of brick wall with sloping horizontal beds would mess with my head.......... but that may be just me ;o)))
Foundation: certainly not necessary for re-building the stone.
Even with brick, there is such little load, that you could get way with what's there already.
BUT............ brick laid level means that you would have to pay quite a lot of attention to getting a level bed to work off. No problem, but bear in mind that it may involve some excavation at one end of each section......... and obviously level at the other end. You don't want foundation concrete rising above ground level... not a good look.
So much to think about, isn't there? :o)))))))
I rather like the stone used in the dwarf wall. This is entirely personal, but I would just rebuild the wall using the stone again.
It would complement those pavers nicely. It's a lovely rural setting, and I'm not a fan of modern brick. I always call it the "Health Centre" look, especially when the chosen pavers are nicely subdued and rustic.
Rebuilding would mean that I would throw away the level and keep that "random" look that the stone gives you. Trying to level it up would be unnecessary.
But... your question: if you use any modern brick, even rustic, it should always be laid horizontal and level.
The very nature of continuous straight lines in the brick joints (horizontally, and vertically) tend to make it look awkward if they run with the adjacent slope. It would, of course, mean breaking the wall into sections, with one end higher than the other. Nothing wrong with that, but it means having a "stepped" wall along the length of the drive.
A long length of brick wall with sloping horizontal beds would mess with my head.......... but that may be just me ;o)))
Foundation: certainly not necessary for re-building the stone.
Even with brick, there is such little load, that you could get way with what's there already.
BUT............ brick laid level means that you would have to pay quite a lot of attention to getting a level bed to work off. No problem, but bear in mind that it may involve some excavation at one end of each section......... and obviously level at the other end. You don't want foundation concrete rising above ground level... not a good look.
So much to think about, isn't there? :o)))))))
Yes, the edges... perimeters.
No problem up against a side wall (you won't be driving there.)
BUT... where you drive off the pavers onto the road for instance, you should solid bed the last two or three pavers (laid in mortar - not the sand bed)
Obvious reason of course. Driving onto or off pavers will eventually cause them to loosen and tip.
The road will naturally be lower than the pavers. A good thing would be to have a short concrete ramp from road level to the top of the pavers.
Do this anywhere you're likely to drive onto or off the paved area.
One idea for any "kerb" is to use matching brick-shaped ordinary bricks and bed them at right-angles to the pavers. Bricks bedded "on edge" look good.
You may find that the paver suppliers can provide something suitable.
That's it really... except, when calculating the amount of bedding sand needed, (50mm thickness) allow for 70mm (before compaction), as it will compress under compaction :o)
No problem up against a side wall (you won't be driving there.)
BUT... where you drive off the pavers onto the road for instance, you should solid bed the last two or three pavers (laid in mortar - not the sand bed)
Obvious reason of course. Driving onto or off pavers will eventually cause them to loosen and tip.
The road will naturally be lower than the pavers. A good thing would be to have a short concrete ramp from road level to the top of the pavers.
Do this anywhere you're likely to drive onto or off the paved area.
One idea for any "kerb" is to use matching brick-shaped ordinary bricks and bed them at right-angles to the pavers. Bricks bedded "on edge" look good.
You may find that the paver suppliers can provide something suitable.
That's it really... except, when calculating the amount of bedding sand needed, (50mm thickness) allow for 70mm (before compaction), as it will compress under compaction :o)
You're very welcome, Uk. Yes, it is exciting when people try things for themselves :o)
Where to start?
it depends... will you be laying the sand before you have the pavers delivered? If so, where would you put the pavers when they arrive?
I think I would have the sand tipped on the drive first, and get on with that first. Leave an area free at the bottom near the road for the pavers to be craned off onto. You could even leave a bigger area so you can park your cars down there for a while.
Small areas such as patios are usually laid in one go, but you've got 20m. It wouldn't hurt if you did it in two sections. Top half first, leaving the bottom bit for pavers and cars, as I said above.
Then the bottom section.
There are only two things needed in Building.......... skills (which you can learn) and common sense (which is the hardest part.)
Think it through. You don't want to be moving stuff about later because you put it in the wrong place.
Where to start?
it depends... will you be laying the sand before you have the pavers delivered? If so, where would you put the pavers when they arrive?
I think I would have the sand tipped on the drive first, and get on with that first. Leave an area free at the bottom near the road for the pavers to be craned off onto. You could even leave a bigger area so you can park your cars down there for a while.
Small areas such as patios are usually laid in one go, but you've got 20m. It wouldn't hurt if you did it in two sections. Top half first, leaving the bottom bit for pavers and cars, as I said above.
Then the bottom section.
There are only two things needed in Building.......... skills (which you can learn) and common sense (which is the hardest part.)
Think it through. You don't want to be moving stuff about later because you put it in the wrong place.