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Advice re Grade 2 property
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I am considering buying a grade 2 listed house. Does any one have any advice please
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Hi ray,i am also buying a grade 2 listed house at the mo. I was after it last year and it all went pear shaped (long story but nothing to do with its grade 2 status) I asked the same thing and got loads of info from jake-the-peg on here and also raysparx.One site mentioned was http:www.spab.org.uk/ .A site to do with old buildings.
I was told that if you make any alterations at all you must get permission from the historic buildings officer at the local council.If you make alterations they have to be in keeping with the original fittings,often things are more expensive cos they may have to be specially made.
The house I am buying has already been renovated and I have no desire to alter anything but none of this has put me off.Hope you feel the same.I'm sure someone will add to this.Happy house buying!
I was told that if you make any alterations at all you must get permission from the historic buildings officer at the local council.If you make alterations they have to be in keeping with the original fittings,often things are more expensive cos they may have to be specially made.
The house I am buying has already been renovated and I have no desire to alter anything but none of this has put me off.Hope you feel the same.I'm sure someone will add to this.Happy house buying!
You got me looking now! I just found a great site http://www.heritage.co.uk all about this subject.Enjoy.
This is a real big subject let me start with just a few things I've learnt over the last 6 years of owning a grade II cottage.
Firstly watch out for surveyors, your average surveyor will wander in with a damp meter and produce a report saying you need to install a damp proof course tell your mortgae lender and they'll insist on a load of unneccessary and possibly damaging work. They can also tell the difference between 200 year old wood worm and active woodworm!Get a surveyor with experience of historic buildings! SPAB should be able to help.
I don't know what sort of condition it's in but historic houses always need work - you're about to buy a hobby
As barb says you need permission to do work and it's a real good idea to get in touch with your local historic buildings officer early and have a chat so they feel comfortable that you want to work with them .
If it does need work - think about it - the house has been there probably for a couple of hundred years you don't want to make quick decisions that'll be hard to correct.
Spab also do courses on old buildings that are very good and have fact sheets and all sorts.
I guess the main point is to spend time enjoying living in a very individual home and take time getting to know it.
also check out
http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/
Firstly watch out for surveyors, your average surveyor will wander in with a damp meter and produce a report saying you need to install a damp proof course tell your mortgae lender and they'll insist on a load of unneccessary and possibly damaging work. They can also tell the difference between 200 year old wood worm and active woodworm!Get a surveyor with experience of historic buildings! SPAB should be able to help.
I don't know what sort of condition it's in but historic houses always need work - you're about to buy a hobby
As barb says you need permission to do work and it's a real good idea to get in touch with your local historic buildings officer early and have a chat so they feel comfortable that you want to work with them .
If it does need work - think about it - the house has been there probably for a couple of hundred years you don't want to make quick decisions that'll be hard to correct.
Spab also do courses on old buildings that are very good and have fact sheets and all sorts.
I guess the main point is to spend time enjoying living in a very individual home and take time getting to know it.
also check out
http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/
My house is grade II listed, which is fine and funky until you want to do something to it. I thought I would be happy leaving it as it is, but little did I know on moving in, that the front step/window sill acted as a nice meeting place for all the chavs in the area. They would sit up on it, drink, smoke, swear, and not even consider that they were on someone's house! (It is an old Bank, so still looks like a commercial building). I had to argue the toss/appeal/appeal and appeal again, to try and get the small minded arses at the council to let me put a Victorian (nice, tasteful) railing along the step bit, to stop kids sitting there. It took 2 years, but finally they allowed me. It now looks great, and is very in keeping with the style of the building.
Here's a pic.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/lemonb ade/Housepics.jpg
It also means of course that you can't alter any windows, staircases, fireplaces etc. Which is fine if you like it how it is. You also have to maintain these features. And you can't paint the front door purple, it has to be kept as it is.
Here's a pic.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/lemonb ade/Housepics.jpg
It also means of course that you can't alter any windows, staircases, fireplaces etc. Which is fine if you like it how it is. You also have to maintain these features. And you can't paint the front door purple, it has to be kept as it is.
Hiya Ray again.I'm so glad jake the peg answered you,at least he has lived in a Grade 2 for 6 years so will be able to give you more info. than me.(As has Scarlett!) Hopefully he will come back later about the cash side.Do you need to renovate this property? All I've been told is that you must use materials in keeping with the original finish and often they are only supplied or made by specialist companies who can be more expensive.The house I'm buying is already renovated and the builders did a fantastic job.I have the old stone sills,wooden windows,beamed ceilings,stripped wooden floors etc. The other thing with mine is that the roof is a particular slate and I know it has to come from this area.I'm sure jake will fill you in. The advice about surveyors is spot on too.I'm just about to get into all that.Sorry I can't help more.Gonna keep watching to see how you get on.Keep us posted!
No that's not the case at all! You just need to preserve the features of the house that are already there. You can see from the front of my house that the stonework badly needs cleaning and the decoration is crumbling. However, it was like that when I bought it. Nobody is gonna come and beat me with a stick if I don't get it cleaner- the previous owners never did, and I have asked the council about a grant towards the cost of it, and they said nothing is available. Because it is listed, I can't just sand/water blast it, it has to be done very carefully and gently by this German method. Basically, you have to ask the listed buildings man at the council before you do ANYTHING, just to be on the safe side, and they will advise you.
Nioce picture Scarlett - You must have seriously high ceilings - I now instinctively duck going through doorways!
The thing about Grade II is that it is just - that not Grade II* not Grade I - in most cases the biggest concern is to keep the exterior in keeping and to stop any wanton vandalism liking ripping out old elm flooring because the new owner has taken a shine to laminate.
In fact they probably only have pictures and notes of the front on file at all.
Scarlett went straight for the heart of this by wanting to change the front - that's a big ask - even for a small railing. The fact that she eventually got permission at all shows that they really are quite reasonable really and don't expect you to live in a museum.
The main thing to consider about costs is that materials will be more expensive - for example if you have cast iron guttering that need repairing don't think that you'll be able to put up some plastic stuff instead - the basic rule is that like must be repaired with like.
I don't know what age we're talking about here but if there is any render or stone work or plaster then this really needs to be done with lime mortar - this takes longer to work with which increases costs but cement based products are impervious to water and trap moisture in the walls and is a major source of damp in old houses.
It's not been too bad a cash drain for me but we've been in the position to do a certain amount of work ourselves. It tends to come in fits and starts - the thing to be most aware of is that if you start a major job like replacing a floor you *will* discover problems and it *will* take twice as long and cost twice as much as you originally thought.
But would I go and live in a new build "Barrett box"? Not for all the Tea in China!
The thing about Grade II is that it is just - that not Grade II* not Grade I - in most cases the biggest concern is to keep the exterior in keeping and to stop any wanton vandalism liking ripping out old elm flooring because the new owner has taken a shine to laminate.
In fact they probably only have pictures and notes of the front on file at all.
Scarlett went straight for the heart of this by wanting to change the front - that's a big ask - even for a small railing. The fact that she eventually got permission at all shows that they really are quite reasonable really and don't expect you to live in a museum.
The main thing to consider about costs is that materials will be more expensive - for example if you have cast iron guttering that need repairing don't think that you'll be able to put up some plastic stuff instead - the basic rule is that like must be repaired with like.
I don't know what age we're talking about here but if there is any render or stone work or plaster then this really needs to be done with lime mortar - this takes longer to work with which increases costs but cement based products are impervious to water and trap moisture in the walls and is a major source of damp in old houses.
It's not been too bad a cash drain for me but we've been in the position to do a certain amount of work ourselves. It tends to come in fits and starts - the thing to be most aware of is that if you start a major job like replacing a floor you *will* discover problems and it *will* take twice as long and cost twice as much as you originally thought.
But would I go and live in a new build "Barrett box"? Not for all the Tea in China!
Yep- I need to add a new down pipe down the right hand side of the building as the water currently flows inside the house and under the floor (!) and up through an old man hole in heavy rain! If you can see the white rectangular lead one that is there now- you can bet your life that is what they will expect me to put on. No grey plastic here... It will cost loads, no doubt and have to be made by a specialist firm.
Thanks all - this really helps. Been trying to make a few local enquiries about the property as well, bcs I can't understand (yet!) why its been on market for so long. At what point would I have a surveyor go round? I've only ever bought new b4 so don't really know the process re making an offer etc. Again, any info much apprecaited, thanks :)
Scarlett
You need to look at Salvo
http://www.salvo.co.uk/arch-metalwork/forsale. html#29807
�2 a foot and �6 per junction - you shouldn't need a specialist to install
You need to look at Salvo
http://www.salvo.co.uk/arch-metalwork/forsale. html#29807
�2 a foot and �6 per junction - you shouldn't need a specialist to install
Ray, you really should get a surveyor in before you make an offer. Or, make an offer subject to survey. It is worth paying �200 for the peace of mind you will receive, knowing that you aren't buying a pile of junk with huge problems. If you know a clever bloke (like a Dad, or someone who is a builder etc) you could ask them to come round with you. For my house, I asked an independent structural engineer to come and have a look, but to NOT write a report, just to tell me if it was sound, or if there were any major concerns. He did this for me and it cost �70. I just phoned him up and said "any problems?" and he said "No, it's build like a bank!!"
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