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What is the best method to sow grass seed for a lawn?
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Hi have a terracred house with a small to medium sized lawn for this type of dwelling. Can someone please tell me the best method for sowing grass seed to get a good result on a recenly cleared garden wnatning to make it inyo a lawn?
The nore answers the merrier so to speak!
The nore answers the merrier so to speak!
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.Repeating what's alreday been stated, I would add that a measured seeder that one can rent very reasonably at any garden or DIY store will give you a better spread of the seed than hand scattering.
Here in the western U.S. we have the best results with a "slit seeder". It evenly seeds the area through small devices in the bottom of the seeder that places the seeds about 1/4 inch or so below the surface of the ground.
Additionally, for a new lawn, buy about 1 pound (weight) of oat seed per each 10 pounds of grass seed (or same ratio if using less seed).
The oats will germinate and begin growing more quickly than grass seed and then provide a "nurse" crop that will shade and draw needed moisture to the "baby" grass plants. The oat plants will disappear when the new lawn is first mowed and will not re-seed.
Be sure to choose the correct grass seed mix for your use. This is especially important if you're growing area is partially shaded...
Best of luck (when the weather warms(
Here in the western U.S. we have the best results with a "slit seeder". It evenly seeds the area through small devices in the bottom of the seeder that places the seeds about 1/4 inch or so below the surface of the ground.
Additionally, for a new lawn, buy about 1 pound (weight) of oat seed per each 10 pounds of grass seed (or same ratio if using less seed).
The oats will germinate and begin growing more quickly than grass seed and then provide a "nurse" crop that will shade and draw needed moisture to the "baby" grass plants. The oat plants will disappear when the new lawn is first mowed and will not re-seed.
Be sure to choose the correct grass seed mix for your use. This is especially important if you're growing area is partially shaded...
Best of luck (when the weather warms(
It's all in the preparation. 90% of the work is involved in working the surface of the land into something that is an even (not necessarily level - but not with humps and lumps), removing most of the largish stones from the top 10mm of earth. Considering how much money you are going to save versus buying expensive turf of dubious quality, maybe worth investing in a few bags of multicompost to rake into the top tilth - the sort you can buy 3 for �10 from the DIY sheds - less on 10% days.
The 10% of the work - the easy bit - is described by the others above.
The 10% of the work - the easy bit - is described by the others above.
I would agree with the other answers, especially about the need for good preparation. When you do choose your seed, choose one that has a bird repellent covering to the seed. Once the seed begins to sprout birds loose interest in it. A couple of weeks before sowing check the ground over for perennial weeds and treat with a glyphosate killer. A visit to a garden centre will show assorted packets of seed for you to choose from, according to the use your lawn will get, and its situation eg a shady site..
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