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HI ALL if anyone can give a answer to this .I are having a new kitchen in and are changing the single oven to a double (belling range)
13 Answers
A mate of a mate as said that this would be ok as long as the cable from the isolation switch is at least 6mm and that i do a small calc with the data sheet from the belling spec sheet .The total kw for the oven is 15.00 i have done the calcs and i was hoping someone could check my sums cheers and thanks.15.520 divided by 230 volts gave me 68amps -the 10amps =58amps then x30% =17.40 + the 10 amp and came with 27.40amp( this could be total wrong advice i got from a mate?).Now the only other prob i have is the single oven is fused with a 30amp fuse .so what i really are asking is would this fuse be ok for the double oven .I forgot to mention the the isolating switch also has a 13amp socket and would it be a good idear to change ths switch to supply the oven only thanks in advance wills.
Answers
LCDMAN's post wasn't there when I started typing.
Perhaps (with the knowledge that the manufacturer specifies a 45A fuse) he might now be able to contribute further?
21:51 Thu 12th Jan 2012
I'm confused by the bit where you wrote "The total kw for the oven is 15.00"
The Belling website states there are currently three electric double ovens in their built-in range. The B170FP and the B190FP both have maximum loads of 4.515kW, while the B190MF has a maximum load of 4.685kW.
http://www.belling.co.uk/built-in-ovens
(Click a model number and then 'Specification')
So it seems that you might be starting from a false premise. (The Belling website states that all three of those ovens require a 32A fuse).
Chris
The Belling website states there are currently three electric double ovens in their built-in range. The B170FP and the B190FP both have maximum loads of 4.515kW, while the B190MF has a maximum load of 4.685kW.
http://www.belling.co.uk/built-in-ovens
(Click a model number and then 'Specification')
So it seems that you might be starting from a false premise. (The Belling website states that all three of those ovens require a 32A fuse).
Chris
Do you really mean oven or is it in fact a Cooker (double oven & electric hob)? The calculation you have done is called applying Diversity - it assumes you are unlikely to use all the hob rings together for any length of time and thus the total current load can be lower than it otherwise might appear to be (it's 10 Amps plus 30% of the remainder). The fact you are quoting the 15kW figure suggests it is a cooker and not just a built-in double oven - I would be surprised if just a double oven got anywhere near 15kW. You cannot apply Diversity to an oven, you must use the actual quoted load.
In this case your basic maths do add up, but whether a 6mm cable is sufficient depends on other factors such as length of cable run, installation method, any bunching or insulation etc. not just the load applied. A sparks will know the correct de-rating factors to apply to the load calculation, might I respectfully suggest you ask the advice of one.
If it truly is a 15kW load then I'd be putting in a 10mm cable regardless, the socket can add another 3kW of load to the cable.
Is it a fuse or a circuit breaker that protects it? Many older fuse boxes only allow for a maximum of a 30A fuse and even then it can only go in the first position, right next to the main switch. If it's a circuit breaker then you can get 40A versions but you MUST ensure the cable can support the increased load or you cause a fire.
In this case your basic maths do add up, but whether a 6mm cable is sufficient depends on other factors such as length of cable run, installation method, any bunching or insulation etc. not just the load applied. A sparks will know the correct de-rating factors to apply to the load calculation, might I respectfully suggest you ask the advice of one.
If it truly is a 15kW load then I'd be putting in a 10mm cable regardless, the socket can add another 3kW of load to the cable.
Is it a fuse or a circuit breaker that protects it? Many older fuse boxes only allow for a maximum of a 30A fuse and even then it can only go in the first position, right next to the main switch. If it's a circuit breaker then you can get 40A versions but you MUST ensure the cable can support the increased load or you cause a fire.
Hi Wills
Strangely, the Belling website doesn't actually quote the power consumption, per se, of that model but it does state that it requires a 45A fuse:
http://www.belling.co...ange-Cookers/DB4-90E/
There are some electricians on this site. If one of them posts here I'll happily bow to their superior knowledge but I associate 45A fuses with 10mm cable.
Chris
Strangely, the Belling website doesn't actually quote the power consumption, per se, of that model but it does state that it requires a 45A fuse:
http://www.belling.co...ange-Cookers/DB4-90E/
There are some electricians on this site. If one of them posts here I'll happily bow to their superior knowledge but I associate 45A fuses with 10mm cable.
Chris
Yes Chris, 40/45 Amp breaker (can't get a domestic fuse that big!) and 10mm cable. If Wills1967 has fuses, not circuit breakers, then that complicates things further - may need to put a new 2 way Consumer unit ("fuse box") just for the cooker and split the supply tails to supply it. Either way, I have no doubt this is a job for an electrician (like me!)
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