News4 mins ago
Nissan Micra boot locking.unlocking problems
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Just frixed my Nissan Micra faulty boot switch for £1. Nissan wanted £140.
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I think I may have told the story before but:
My mother owns a Nissan Micra. The remote filler cap release failed so she took it to the dealer who supplied it. The quoted for a new cable and couplings plus labour coming in around (I think) about £160.
She took it to the independent garage that she'd used in the past where an RAC guy was having a cup of tea. He looked in behind the boot lining carpet and found the little clip that had come adrift. "Common fault with these" he said. His bill, 1 box of luxury assorted chocolate biscuits.
Now I'm sure not ALL big garages are thieving rogues but............
My mother owns a Nissan Micra. The remote filler cap release failed so she took it to the dealer who supplied it. The quoted for a new cable and couplings plus labour coming in around (I think) about £160.
She took it to the independent garage that she'd used in the past where an RAC guy was having a cup of tea. He looked in behind the boot lining carpet and found the little clip that had come adrift. "Common fault with these" he said. His bill, 1 box of luxury assorted chocolate biscuits.
Now I'm sure not ALL big garages are thieving rogues but............
Boot was locking and unlocking itself. There is apparently a design fault in the Micra where a dopey French switch is fitted to unlock boot. Go to Nissan and they will charge £140 to replace with the same switch. Took off cover and removed the handle and mounting. With a bit of trimming of the plastic and some superglue and a £1 switch from Maplins it is now working perfectly.
Ok coccinelle.
UNLOCKING THE BOOT
If the boot is locked and you can not get access to it first take out the parcel shelf via the inside of the car. Drop the rear seats forward to give yourself a bit of space. With a spoon handle or blunt instrument remove the black plastic cover from the boot. Gently so as not to break the plastic locking pins. When the cover is removed you will see 2 wires going from the inside of the boot handle to a white connector. Release the 2 wires by gently pressing on the edge of the switch. Now get a small screwdriver and insert it into the female side of the white plug ( the side that is not going to the boot handle). Don't worry you will not get a shock. You will hear the boot lid catch operate and you can now open the boot.
CHANGING THE SWITCH.
With the boot open stand at the rear of the car and facing away from it. Look up and you will see where the wires you disconnected go into a handle casing. Held in place by 2 nuts. Undo the 2 nuts and you can remove the handle and assembly via the outside of the boot. Just gently pull the wires and the rubber seal through. You will see 4 screws in the handle. Remove the 4 screws and gently lift out the switch. It is surrounded by black stuff like bluetac. Throw it away. You can now lift out the old switch. This may take a bit of care as it is held in place by plastic "wedges". Cut the wires as close to the black switch as you can and keep the wires and the attached white connector. Throw switch away as it has no further use.
Go to Maplins or order online a "push to make non locking switch JB00A". Around £1. Now that you have the switch look at the handle from the inside. You are looking at the inside of the rubber part that you press to unlock the boot . There is a rectangular hole where the old switch went. Mark the size of the new switch on this hole and with a stanley knife gently trim a square out so the the switch will fit but not drop through. This does take a bit of time and patience but don't be tempted to rush. Just a matter of trimming and trying till it fits. The bottom of the switch should be level with the bottom of the rectangle with the button protruding inside the rubber part which you press to unlock. When you are satisfied that it is a snug fit get the superglue and without excess glue fix it in place. Leave overnight to really harden before you try. (Beware, I was a bit too liberal with the glue. A small amount got on the face of the switch button and it was another trip to Maplins for a new one). Now with a soldering iron attach the 2 wires which you previously removed from the old switch to the new switch. Does not matter which wire to which connection.
When this is done and all the glue is set attach the white connector into the car white connector again. Press the rubber part of the handle as if you were opening the boot. You should hear the boot opener operate. If all is working then reattach all the handle in reverse order to taking off. When all is reconnected try again and if all in order replace the black cover on the inside of the boot. If you do not have a soldering iron or do not want to attempt the soldering of the wires try a local electrical shop or garage. It takes 2 minutes and would cost pence only. This may sound complicated as it did to me but believe me the hardest part is cutting out the square in the plastic.
Give it a go,
UNLOCKING THE BOOT
If the boot is locked and you can not get access to it first take out the parcel shelf via the inside of the car. Drop the rear seats forward to give yourself a bit of space. With a spoon handle or blunt instrument remove the black plastic cover from the boot. Gently so as not to break the plastic locking pins. When the cover is removed you will see 2 wires going from the inside of the boot handle to a white connector. Release the 2 wires by gently pressing on the edge of the switch. Now get a small screwdriver and insert it into the female side of the white plug ( the side that is not going to the boot handle). Don't worry you will not get a shock. You will hear the boot lid catch operate and you can now open the boot.
CHANGING THE SWITCH.
With the boot open stand at the rear of the car and facing away from it. Look up and you will see where the wires you disconnected go into a handle casing. Held in place by 2 nuts. Undo the 2 nuts and you can remove the handle and assembly via the outside of the boot. Just gently pull the wires and the rubber seal through. You will see 4 screws in the handle. Remove the 4 screws and gently lift out the switch. It is surrounded by black stuff like bluetac. Throw it away. You can now lift out the old switch. This may take a bit of care as it is held in place by plastic "wedges". Cut the wires as close to the black switch as you can and keep the wires and the attached white connector. Throw switch away as it has no further use.
Go to Maplins or order online a "push to make non locking switch JB00A". Around £1. Now that you have the switch look at the handle from the inside. You are looking at the inside of the rubber part that you press to unlock the boot . There is a rectangular hole where the old switch went. Mark the size of the new switch on this hole and with a stanley knife gently trim a square out so the the switch will fit but not drop through. This does take a bit of time and patience but don't be tempted to rush. Just a matter of trimming and trying till it fits. The bottom of the switch should be level with the bottom of the rectangle with the button protruding inside the rubber part which you press to unlock. When you are satisfied that it is a snug fit get the superglue and without excess glue fix it in place. Leave overnight to really harden before you try. (Beware, I was a bit too liberal with the glue. A small amount got on the face of the switch button and it was another trip to Maplins for a new one). Now with a soldering iron attach the 2 wires which you previously removed from the old switch to the new switch. Does not matter which wire to which connection.
When this is done and all the glue is set attach the white connector into the car white connector again. Press the rubber part of the handle as if you were opening the boot. You should hear the boot opener operate. If all is working then reattach all the handle in reverse order to taking off. When all is reconnected try again and if all in order replace the black cover on the inside of the boot. If you do not have a soldering iron or do not want to attempt the soldering of the wires try a local electrical shop or garage. It takes 2 minutes and would cost pence only. This may sound complicated as it did to me but believe me the hardest part is cutting out the square in the plastic.
Give it a go,
I see where you are coming from. Always a good idea. However, when you disconnect the lead at the boot there is no need to disconnect the battery. Also you are doing the soldering away from the car so there is no danger of any contacts. I have been working with cars and electrics longer than I care to remember.
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