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whiskeysheri | 12:40 Fri 31st Mar 2006 | How it Works
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I bought a made to measure blind from a seller on eBay (at sale price) as my window is over 8 foot long. I was told to take measurments from the bottom, middle and top of the window and provide them with all three. I ordered it to fit the recess, as opposed to it hanging above the window.

Now, I'm stuck...

The blind is about a centimetre too long for the window. It's isn't the seller's fault as it's what I ordered, but the problem is the window. My bedroom is part of the extension which the previous owner's built themselves. The plastering is ridiculous, with lumps and bumps all over the place. I've removed about an inch of the plaster from one side so that there's clearance for the bracket, etc, but they need to be drilled into the top of the recess. That's the other problem, I can't drill into it as there's the lintel (I think it's called?)!! (How does anyone else manage to put up a blind?)

I've was going to screw the bracket into the side of the recess, but the wall's crumbling away! Can anyone help me? All DIYers tip appreciated!!


Who could I contact that might be able to help and put it up for me (suggested on previous post) and do you know how much they might charge?

Thanks so much for any advice in advance (it's doing my head in) x

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The way I'd try and do it would be to glue a batten about 25x12mm to the top of the recess along the length and then screw the blind into the wood. Use something like Gripfill, which is a solvent-free gap filling adhesive. That allows for all the humps and bumps between the batten and the recess to get filled with a layer of glue. This stuff comes from DIY places in tubes that are cheap enough (�4 or less) but you may need a dispenser to squeeze it out.


The problem this won't solve is the length and indeed this suggestion will make it worse because it is going to hang down even lower. Apart from trimming the bottom I don't know how to deal with that. You need a local handyman to do this sort of job - try local newsagents ads perhaps. This sort of job is often done by retired chaps for a bit of spare cash. Maybe that's what I will turn to in another 20 years.

Question Author

Thanks for your reply buildersmate.


Sorry, I meant the blind is actually too long width-wise to fit into the recess. I tried removing the plaster to give it more room which worked in a way.


Do you think the glued batton would be strong enough to hold the blind as it's nearly 8' across?


Thanks again for your help, you're a star!

Question Author

Apologies for my post, the window is nearly 8 foot wide, not long! x

It is not too difficult to take off one end of the blind(assuming that it is a roller blind) and reducing the length of the pole. However that still leaves the problem of the width of the blind material. Once again this can be trimmed along its whole length(drop to avoid confusion).


Many people including myself buy approximate width blinds and have to cut them to fit. No major tools DIY are needed, just requires patience and a little thought.


I think that buildersmate is correct in saying that you need to fix some sort of batten either at right angles to the lintel or along its length. Now I know you are thinking how you might attach the batten and for this you might find that 'NO NAILS' is the answer to this problem if you can't drill into the lintel.

It has just crossed my mind that this is more than likely a vertical blind but the principles are the same but you will almost certainly have to use a batten to screw the supports into.
No Nails is the same as Gripfill - there are various brands of gap filling adhesive. Yes it will hold something like this. Builders use it in place of nails (hence one of the brand names).
i builld extenstions for a living , find out if the lintol is either concrete,steel or wood if cowboys have built it , it will more likley be steel it is fine to drill and fix , cut the plasterer off on the other window reveal, neatly, then get some 6mm soffit board its cement based not asbestos or superlux you might no it as , if the extenstion is a recent new build the walls couldbe made of thermalite block whitch could be cut back wilth a hand saw stick the soffit board down either side of the reveal with dry wall adhesive, no plastering needed use easifill to patch any holes, sand down after , job sorted
Question Author
I managed to do it everyone, yay!! Thank you for all your help- I'm so chuffed now. x
Once employed a bricky called Phil Kernot.....what a mess he made of my front wall and roof....looks like a kid has been at the job.......

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