ChatterBank4 mins ago
Central Heating
8 Answers
The programmer switch on our CH/hot water does not seem to be working and the small bulb is not lit. Is it likely to be the fuse in the unit and what sort of fuse is it? The unit is the standard programmer switch, ie Honeywell.
Answers
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Are you able to override the timer at all so that the boiler fires up? If not its not a case of replacing a bulb or a fuse, it could be that the timer needs replacing, or you may even need a new ignition. If you can here the boiler fire up, and the fan is coming on it could just be a thermostat problem if you have no heat/hot water.
Failing that call Homeserve on 0845 6002266
Failing that call Homeserve on 0845 6002266
There will not be a fuse in the programmer , But it sounds as if your on the right tracks. Have you checked the fuse for the boiler itself probably a standard 3amp plug fuse. in a fused spur located near the boiler. If that has gone then there will not be any power to the programmer, as it takes its power from the boiler.
The boiler was fitted from new 2 months ago and was fitted externally on the outside wall. The fitter ran some cables to the airing cupboard where the programmer is situated. There are 2 boxes close together + the programmer. One of the boxes seems like the spur gasman was talking about and has a switch on it together with the indicator light which remains off. I will attempt to look inside this spur for the fuse. The question arises why should the fuse blow and it could happen again? Or should I call out the plumbing firm who fitted the boiler to look at what seems an electrical fault?
the fuse could have just blown, you dont know how long it has been kicking around in the bottom of someones tool box i wouldnt call anybody out just yet . but if it repetedly blows then there is a problem. If it is only a couple of months old then you should not have to pay anything to rectify it as it will be covered. If they refuse to do anything about it then let CORGI know that one of there gasmen is not holding up there end and not backingup their work. They will look into it for you.
I thought as the boiler was still under guarantee I would call out the installers. They sent round an engineer this afternoon. The problem was the fuse. I was told this fuse controls the power shower and was 3amp. But the engineer who fitted my boiler instead of having its own spur decided to feed into the power shower which overloaded it. He replaced it with a 5 amp fuse.
Its a bit goggly gook to me but should he have put the CH connection into a separate box and what are the likely future consequences for not having done so?
Its a bit goggly gook to me but should he have put the CH connection into a separate box and what are the likely future consequences for not having done so?
The boiler manufactures will have stated a 3amp fuse rating for there appliance. if it is now running off a 5amp fuse and there is a power surge or fault at some time and your PCB melts instead of the fuse blowing they will not be obliged to honour their gaurantee as it was not installed to there recomendations. I install boilers for a living but i am not an electrician. but i am pretty sure that it should have its own fused spur & not share one with the shower it sounds dodgy to me. Did you get a certificate from CORGI saying that it has been registered and fitted in accordance to building regs. for gas and electrical installations ?
I should have pointed it out earlier but the boiler runs on oil. What you say about likely problem with too high a fuse is worrying. If this 5amp fuse blows like the 3 amp one did I will get straight onto the installer and ask for a separate spur for the boiler to be fitted. Thanks for all your help...much appreciated!
Because the boiler was under guarantee I got in touch with the installer. After explaining the problem they sent out an electrical engineer. As there was no power to the boiler I had concluded it would be the fuse but the real reason needed to be sorted. This was the power connected to the boiler and also the power shower so causing some overload.
The installer sub-contact electrical engineer charged a call out of �60 and replaced the 3-amp fuse with a 5-amp which took about 5 minutes.
After consultation with my own electrical engineer he told me that the wiring was wrong and each device should have its own fuse so that each could operate independently and which he fixed within 10 minutes.
Shouldn't the installer have checked that the boiler was adequately protected rather than installing new cables into an unsatisfacory setup.
Where do I stand?
The installer sub-contact electrical engineer charged a call out of �60 and replaced the 3-amp fuse with a 5-amp which took about 5 minutes.
After consultation with my own electrical engineer he told me that the wiring was wrong and each device should have its own fuse so that each could operate independently and which he fixed within 10 minutes.
Shouldn't the installer have checked that the boiler was adequately protected rather than installing new cables into an unsatisfacory setup.
Where do I stand?
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