Can I check the wiring on the rear screen heater using a Rapitest DM25 test meter, and if so where should the wires plug into, and what setting do I use?
It has the com for the black lead, 10A Max Fused, 2A Max Fused, and Cat 3 600V/Cat 2 1000V for the red lead. The dial has a number of numbers on it, including, A with a line and 3 dots underneath the line, and the other side has a V plus the same symbols. At the bottom there is an A on one side and a V on th other side, with a squiggly line.
You'll think I'm thick & I suppose I am but I thought I'd be clever and borrowed the test meter off a mate, but didn't like to shoe him how ignorant I am by asking him about the settings. Many thanks for any help that you brainy folk can give me!!!!
black lead in COM
Red lead in CAT3 600V
use the V with the line and dotted line setting (if there are a range of numbers use the one closest to about 20V)
I'd start by looking for where the heating filaments in the rear screen connect to the wiring loom to start, there should be a connector somewhere round the rear screen, if there is voltage there the screen may have had it, if there is none then I'd look at the switch next, but a full wiring diagram of the car would now help (or a lot of time figuring out what is what with the meter)
If your test shows a fault in the screen heater circuit, it probably has a break in it where it has been caught with something, ( usually a button on a cleaning rag,), there is a conductive paint you can buy from accessory shops to simply join the two ends together again,
May not be that, but just a thought.
MANY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP, THE ORANGE LIGHT ON THE SWITCH ILLUMINATES AND I HAVE ALSO CHECKED THE FUSES AND THEY ARE ALL O.K., I CONNECTED A BULB TO SOME WIRE TO CHECK FOR A FEED AND IT ILLUMINATES WHEN CONNECTED TO THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE TERMINALS. I TRIED CONNECTING IT TO THE LIVE LEAD GOING TO ONE SIDE OF THE REAR SCREEN HEATER, AND TO THE OTHER SIDE, BUT IT DIDN'T WORK, I ALSO TRIED CLEANING THE EARTH CONNECTION AT THE OTHER SIDE, BUT THAT DIDN'T WORK EITHER SO I ASSUME THAT THE LEAD MUST BE DEAD SO I'LL HAVE TO GET SOMEBODY TO CHECK THE WIRING. THANKS JOHN.