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Painting Block Built Garage And Weather Protection.
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During the very wet weather my garage walls let in water and I am keen to try to stop this happening again. The previous owners built it with single wall breeze block, but it was never rendered and now due to it's proximity to fences/greenhouse/large bitey shrubs it would be impossible. My only option is to paint and even that will be character building in places. Now would any of you paint on a coat of water seal stuff too, either before the paint, after or not all.
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No best answer has yet been selected by Ratty2E. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.Unless you use waterproof render, Ratty, it'll do nothing to keep out rain. I've seen 9" (225mm) rendered blockwork where rain has easily penetrated if facing West.
Even modern masonry paints won't keep it out. Paint only for decoration if you'd like to, but a couple of coats of silicone based sealer is the easiest solution for a garage............
http:// www.scr ewfix.c om/p/th ompson- s-water -seal/5 2043
Even modern masonry paints won't keep it out. Paint only for decoration if you'd like to, but a couple of coats of silicone based sealer is the easiest solution for a garage............
http://
Good question, Ratty.
"Water Seal" should only be applied to "weathered" surfaces. If you paint first, then it could be ages before you can treat it.
If you treat first, then I guess there could be a problem with adhesion. Their data sheets have no mention of this. Ring their Technical people for their advice. I wouldn't have thought that this was a problem. The treatment soaks completely into the blockwork. It shouldn't act as a barrier, but I'm not sure.
If you're not too worried over appearances, then I would suggest simply treating the blockwork, and leaving it at that. It's very effective.
"Water Seal" should only be applied to "weathered" surfaces. If you paint first, then it could be ages before you can treat it.
If you treat first, then I guess there could be a problem with adhesion. Their data sheets have no mention of this. Ring their Technical people for their advice. I wouldn't have thought that this was a problem. The treatment soaks completely into the blockwork. It shouldn't act as a barrier, but I'm not sure.
If you're not too worried over appearances, then I would suggest simply treating the blockwork, and leaving it at that. It's very effective.
Another good question :o)
A top quality masonry paint might take years. I guess you could use limewash or something else that's porous, but you wouldn't match the house.
One way around it ............. slap on a couple of coats of sealer first. If access is difficult, use a long handles roller.
then ... roll on a coat of diluted PVA mixed with some builders' sand. Dilute 5:1 PVA:water. This will give the paint a "key" to hold on to.
I'm making this up as I go along, Ratts, but I'm confident it'll do the job :o)
A top quality masonry paint might take years. I guess you could use limewash or something else that's porous, but you wouldn't match the house.
One way around it ............. slap on a couple of coats of sealer first. If access is difficult, use a long handles roller.
then ... roll on a coat of diluted PVA mixed with some builders' sand. Dilute 5:1 PVA:water. This will give the paint a "key" to hold on to.
I'm making this up as I go along, Ratts, but I'm confident it'll do the job :o)
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Sandtex advertise their masonry paints as being 'waterproof' and 'breathable'. Thompsons say their Water Seal can be overpainted after 3 to 4 days, but add that an oil-based paint should be used, which masonry paints aren't. Thompsons advice about waiting 30 days means you could use a masonry paint as a finish after that time. Personally, from having Santexted the front of my house many years ago, with excellent results, I'd go straight for that. If the breeze block surface is rough, take extra care not to leave evn teensy bits of bare surface. This might mean a couple of applications.
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