poor acceleration

[mildwin]

Me again!! I have posted numerous things about my little car, Fiesta auto 1994. Most recently about the alternator, which is now been replaced so car starts fine now. But it is now juddery on acceleration, seems a little reluctant to move. Once it hits about 30mph it seems to stop being 'lumpy' but is still lacking power. It isn't doing this every time I drive it though which is the weird thing. It is intermittent. Was ok first thing this morning, then played up for a bit, then was a nightmare (really juddery & lacking power), then parked up, restarted the engine & it was ok again. Had this trouble a little while ago & it just seemed to rectify itself. Have had numerous issues over the last few months, and yes I know I should get rid of it (that is my plan as soon as I have enough for a new one). When mechanic did alternator he also looked at the auto gearbox which had been a little noisy. He said that is it on its way out but could last ages. Could the gearbox cause the current problems, poor acceleration, juddering, lumpy to drive? Thanks......................again!!!

[ugly_bob]

could be something as simple as your tickover needs turning up.
Now it's getting cold, the base revs of the engine need to be higher. Find the accelerater cable in the engine and there should be on the end a twist adjuster. Tighten the cable a bit and see if this helps.

[mildwin]

Thanks, but I am a real girl when it comes to cars, manage oil & petrol but anything more than that I wouldn't have a clue! May have to get in touch with the mechanic again

[ugly_bob]

it really is easy. just need 2 people. one to press accelerator, the other to see which cable is moving in the engine. follow the cable up to the engine block to find the adjuster. Turning anti-clockwise should increase the tickover.

[Pea Pod]

Mildwin, the only person buying a new car will be the mechanic.

[homer75]

So I was right about the alternator from day one !! get another mechanic and don't throw any more money at this car - It's too old.

[mildwin]

Yep, you were right about the alternator. I know I should get a new car but not an option at the moment, might have to start using my legs & walking everywhere! As for money, I have been quite lucky as mechanic hasn't charged each time he has come out, only when he has actually done work & even then if it has been a 10-15 minute job he hasn't charged. Obviously paid for alternator, but so far that has been all I have forked out for.
So as a new car is not an option at the mo any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

[JimmyK]

hey there Mildwin, remember me??? LOL
since I last replied I have had a look at a newer model of fiesta than I had worked on before, and it had a poor idling speed! This is an L-reg 1.3l CFi engine.
I discovered there was an electrical device which controlled the idle speed (remember my query about Haynes showing an electrical connection in the circuit diagram but talking about a vacuum mechanism controlling the idle speed when drive is engaged). Haynes calls it a throttle plate control motor.
So now I know that there is an electrical device that sets the idle speed in conjunction with a mechanical pivotting arm, and so adjusting the throttle cable doesnt do as the previous posts say.
Haynes also says that setting the idle speed can only be done by a Ford dealer but its not true, I did reset the one I worked on and it worked fine.
The plunger in the throttle plate control motor which actually controls the throttle position in the carb should be able to move in and out, it is most noticeable when you release the accelerator pedal after revving the engine. When the pedal is pressed, the plunger is not in contact with the lever, this IS when the cable is in play. However, when you release the pedal, a spring pulls the throttle closed but the plunger then comes into play: the way it works is the engine speed drops BELOW idle speed for a few moments, and then the plunger gracefully slides out to set the idle speed where it should be. The plunger pushes on a circular pad that is on a threaded rod, which is screwed into the pivotting arm. There is a small hexagon (about 4 mm across flats) on the back of the threaded rod with the circular pad that the plunger touches, and this is what can be reset.
(Continued in next post)

[JimmyK]

Now all of this is probably of no relevance to the new problem of hesitation etc, it does sound like your gearbox could be on its way out..... like I suggested your mechanic should be all that time ago and it seems someone agrees with me now LOL.
Good luck, maybe you could still get a letter off to Santa and get a nice surprise on Christmas morning??

[mildwin]

That would be very nice!!

Thanks for your reply (although to be honest I didn't really understand it), but thanks. I have been told that the gearbox IS on its way out but was hoping it would last me a bit longer. So when it finally gives up the ghost what would happen, just no drive in it? What about if I were driving it, would it just pack up on me?

Anyway I had better get writing to Santa I think & out to the shops to buy those winning Lottery tickets!!

Merry Christmas all & thank you!

[JimmyK]

hi there,
yes it was a long winded explanation, but i short dont bother trying to find an adjuster for the acclerator cable, its not that!
as for the gearbox, its not possible to predict when it might give up the ghost altogether, I just wouldnt plan any long blasts down the motorway, odds on it will give up just when you need it most. its probably going to prove us all wrong and go on for years but its time to seriously think about letting it go (just as the unfortunate lady who owns the one I worked on should, its getting lots of niggly problems and costing more and more)
Have a great holiday to you and all our readers!