Crosswords1 min ago
radiator screws out of the wall
hi my daughter has pulled the front room radiator screws out from the wall.ive turned off both valves at the side and i have it propped up with the settee(dont laugh).
i cant afford the plumber 60 pounds per hour,4 hours needed because he might have to drain the system.the wall is plaster and brick.can i just drain the rad out ,loosen the valves at the pipes and lay it down propped up a little or do i have to take it off and use some tape or joint compound(it did leak a little) when i put it back.i am a novice so i would also like to know what size of screws,raw plugs and drill bit size to use as ive got no idea.it seems an easy job for some who knows what they are doing but sadly i dont!.
i dont need to drain the system do i? i dont think i could do that anyway.
thanks
martin
i cant afford the plumber 60 pounds per hour,4 hours needed because he might have to drain the system.the wall is plaster and brick.can i just drain the rad out ,loosen the valves at the pipes and lay it down propped up a little or do i have to take it off and use some tape or joint compound(it did leak a little) when i put it back.i am a novice so i would also like to know what size of screws,raw plugs and drill bit size to use as ive got no idea.it seems an easy job for some who knows what they are doing but sadly i dont!.
i dont need to drain the system do i? i dont think i could do that anyway.
thanks
martin
Answers
1 to 6 of 6
Best Answer
No best answer has yet been selected by martin77. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.
Carefully prop/find a way to support pipework each end of the rad.
Find some supports so the rad can be swivveled down onto them.
Ensuring both end controls are fully off, slacken each connector slightly and pivot down (You don't need to drain .. If you do wish to drain, uncouple and lift rad completely off, ensuring controls are no leaking water by)
Redrill brackets at same height but using different holes in the brackets.
Position rad back up again over bracket hooks.
Pipework should give a bit to let you get over brackets .. The hooks are only 4-5mm high.
Turn on, bleed, leak check.
Find some supports so the rad can be swivveled down onto them.
Ensuring both end controls are fully off, slacken each connector slightly and pivot down (You don't need to drain .. If you do wish to drain, uncouple and lift rad completely off, ensuring controls are no leaking water by)
Redrill brackets at same height but using different holes in the brackets.
Position rad back up again over bracket hooks.
Pipework should give a bit to let you get over brackets .. The hooks are only 4-5mm high.
Turn on, bleed, leak check.
Hi martin no you shouldn't need to drain the whole system if you follow advise recently given on here IE turn both valves fully off put plenty at least double the rad size of old towel and polythene under the rad also bake type shallow tin under the valve and loosen the large cone nut that attaches the valve to the rad but hold the valve with grips firmly as you do this to prevent any twist or movement usually clock wise as you look at the end of the radiator then only loosen the bleed valve to allow the dirty water out then tighten back up while you decant the bake tray into a bucket then continue until all the water is out of the rad re tighten the bleed screw then undo both of the nuts to reveal the cone connection then very gently pull the valves away from the rad cone only about 2 or 3 mm then lift the rad up and away from the wall and brackets also at the same time gently turn rad over onto to its top prevent any residue black water coming out of open ends you may need assistance for this part rads can be heavy .
measure the screw add 25mm drill into the brick extra 25 mm use brown plugs with at least 5mm gauge (No 10) then re mount the brackets into old holes if you have some spare holes in the bracket then it may be prudent to put extra same size screws approx 60mm x 5mm and plug in to the new hole but only start the screw then tap into the wall to clear the plaster so that the plug bights into the brickwork only HTH Tez
measure the screw add 25mm drill into the brick extra 25 mm use brown plugs with at least 5mm gauge (No 10) then re mount the brackets into old holes if you have some spare holes in the bracket then it may be prudent to put extra same size screws approx 60mm x 5mm and plug in to the new hole but only start the screw then tap into the wall to clear the plaster so that the plug bights into the brickwork only HTH Tez
Hi, If inlet/outlet valves are shut. Get an oven tray or dish and a larger pot. Open the drain valve slowly (Don't remove until water is just a trickle) and fill the tray. Close the drain valve and empty tray into larger pot.Repeat until radiator empty.You may have to empty the big pot a couple of times. Disconnect the inlet/outlet pipes (after the shut off valves) and lay radiator on a towel in case there is residue gunge (don't want to ruin the floor or carpet)
Remove the old wallplugs and screws and note sizes. Repair the plaster and use the same size or larger. In theory:the further into the wall the screw goes,the stronger the anchor.
Remove the old wallplugs and screws and note sizes. Repair the plaster and use the same size or larger. In theory:the further into the wall the screw goes,the stronger the anchor.
1 to 6 of 6
Related Questions
Sorry, we can't find any related questions. Try using the search bar at the top of the page to search for some keywords, or choose a topic and submit your own question.