(With thanks to a friend) - From June 5th -
"Win a walking holiday for two in Mallorca with Ramblers Worldwide Holidays"
On my way here, I stopped on the western shores of a bay that shares this town’s name. I had hoped to see an island’s lighthouse, a stone’s throw off shore. Established in 1843, it was, in 1960, the scene of an extraordinary killing, when a keeper was murdered. But now I am exploring the town (where, in 1523, a duke landed with invasion in mind).
Set on the estuary of a 19-mile river, it is, according to an author in one of her novels (characters include Macpherson), the sort of place where you either fish or paint. I can understand where the painting idea came from: after all, here is an artist’s home. Born in 1864, he was one of a group of well-known lads. His works include Autumn. I flash my membership card and set about exploring the fine Georgian building, now a museum dedicated to his life and work.
There’s a slightly grander home just along the street. A castle dating from the late 16th century, it’s now a ruin, but worth a look-see all the same. I am not disappointed: the great hall is some 600 sq ft. From here, it’s a short stroll to the art gallery. Built during the 17th century, it has seen service as a jail. Accordingly, it inspired the prison where a landowner’s son was imprisoned in an 1815 novel.
In reality, one of its higher-profile inmates was a naval officer (born 1747), who was charged with murder. He was acquitted, and prospered, becoming popularly known as the father of the American navy. There were, however, plenty on this side of the pond who considered him nothing more than a rogue.
Chris Fautley