Electricity To Plastic Shed

[iloveglee]

Once again I am on here, asking a question. Maybe because more often than not I can get a sensible answer.

We currently have a dilapidated wooden shed, which has an electricity consumer unit in it, we keep a couple of freezers in there, and run the Christmas lights from it. the shed needs replacing, and I want a plastic one so that we don't have to bother with all the maintenance, painting, roof replacing etc.

I have read about these, and they seem to be suitable for our needs, except that I have also read the plastic walls are thin and you can't hang things on them, such as garden tools etc. I am therefore wondering where we will attach the consumer unit, currently it's screwed to a board, which attaches to the shed wall. it has 4 plugs on it, so I imagine it may have some weight.

Any ideas folks.

[Tilly2]

Could you put it on a free-standing shelving unit?

[EDDIE51]

I can't see that a plastic shed would be any different to the current wooden one , at least not as far as an electricity supply is concerned !

[Togo]

Any competent workman or contractor would be able to stiffen the part of the new shed that is to take extra weight. I think that I would be more concerned about using plastic than either a new wooden one or a concrete construction. Shiny plastic soon gets scruffy and tarnished itself.

[Togo]

To be honest I have never even considered such a thing as a plastic shed.......having a quick look it appears that there are a number of suppliers. Talk to whoever is putting it up. If you intended doing it yourself it may be that you do not have the skills. Builder will be along shortly I'm sure. To do the things that concern you is not rocket science. I would be more concerned looking, at them, that the base it is on was suitable to take heavy items. They all appear to have a plastic floor also.

[Old_Geezer]

In a slightly non-sober state, I'd had thought it wouldn't be too difficult to create foundations that one could use to build a stable place to fix a consumer unit, that went through the base and into the plastic shed. Bit read up on the regs just in case.

[The Builder]

No problem with a plastic shed, ilove.
Temporary building site meters and consumer unit are always fixed into a plastic box supplied by the Electricity Company.

I would cut yourself a piece of 18mm plywood, about 600mm square, and simply bolt it to the shed.
Drill the holes through the shed wall and also through the board.
Put rubber washers on the heads of the bolts (outside) to make the holes waterproof.

Screw the consumer unit and possibly some sockets onto the board.
Perfectly safe.

Your most important consideration is proper earthing.
If the shed is near the house, then a normal two-core plus earth type of cable is fine.

If the shed is some way from the building, then it would be better to NOT to export the earth from the house. Just the live and neutral.
Then, sink an earth rod just outside the shed, and connect to the consumer unit.
BUT, you MUST have an RCD fitted as well to comply with earthing regulations.

If you're not too sure, then any electrician would set it up in no time, and test the earth.

I hope this helps.

[iloveglee]

we shall definitely be having an electrician. it's in place in the current hut, so is only a matter of moving it to the new location, as the new hut is going in a different location.

we will be putting the hut up ourselves, and there is a base in place already. Im sure that eventually the plastic will fade (although probably not tarnish as there is no metal on the outside), however, at the age of 72, I suspect it will outlast us!

Not sure if it can go on anything freestanding, the electrician would possibly be able to tell us, hadn't thought of that. Plenty of useful information though in all these responses so thanks for that.

[Hymie]

I have assembled large plastic Keter sheds; I would not recommend attaching anything to the walls (other than the supplied shelving) that involves drilling into the external walls.

Besides compromising the waterproofing of the structure, any appreciable load is likely to stress/break the wall.

However the method of butting the sidewall panels together provides an internal projection that could be used to attach a mounting panel. I plan to add a mains supply to the shed I have now, but to avoid the structure being damaged by the additional load, I plan for the weight of the mounted board to be supported by the floor.

Having assembled 2 Keter sheds I can advise that it is important (vital) that you have a level ground for the shed. In both cases I used paving slabs for the base.

I took me many days to prepare the base and less than 2 days to assemble the shed. Ideally you need dry weather conditions with no/minimal wind. Another thing to bear in mind is that to allow assembly you need a minimum space of 0.6m from any adjacent structure/wall to the shed wall.

Costco always seem to have at least one large Keter shed on offer at least £100 less than others are selling.

[The Builder]

Hymie, while I always respect your input, I do feel you are being over cautious here re drilling.

The load is minimal.

Iloveglee, your electrician will advise.

[iloveglee]

I was thinking of having a trip to Costco actually, I've seen sheds in there in the past, but wondered if it was the time of year for them to be in stock. I must admit I would like to have a good look at them first before we buy, having only ever had wood sheds.

There are many of them available online, but the downside of online obviously is you don't get to see them first. All of the local specialist shed outlets seem to only do wood ones.

Might have to get in touch with the local B&Q and Wickes to see if they have any that are put together for people to look at. Even if we don't buy it from them, online is cheaper definitely.