ChatterBank2 mins ago
Powering Router from light circuit?
6 Answers
Hi, and before i say anything, i know im going to get a few responses stating how i shouldn't even think about doing such a thing, or tampering with my house electrics but i need advice not a lecture.
Basically i need to put a router in my attick, it uses a ac-dc converter and so doesn't use much electricity, and i was wondering if it would be ok to wire it into the lighting circuit? i know its probably not a very good idea. I have for about 2 years had a n extension lead running up there but i want something more permanent and there are no other power sources in the attick.
My second idea is this :
We have a junction for the shower in the airing cupboard which i thought i could run a socket off, but this is rated at 30A, is there anyway i could add a inline breaker/fuse to make this the source of my power?
any suggestions would be great, as i really dont want to burn the house down. TIA
Basically i need to put a router in my attick, it uses a ac-dc converter and so doesn't use much electricity, and i was wondering if it would be ok to wire it into the lighting circuit? i know its probably not a very good idea. I have for about 2 years had a n extension lead running up there but i want something more permanent and there are no other power sources in the attick.
My second idea is this :
We have a junction for the shower in the airing cupboard which i thought i could run a socket off, but this is rated at 30A, is there anyway i could add a inline breaker/fuse to make this the source of my power?
any suggestions would be great, as i really dont want to burn the house down. TIA
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Modifying some household electrical circuits is still acceptable and within the scope of works that doesn't have to be declared through a Building Control application. The scope of what you propose to do is acceptable.
I am sure you are talking about a small computer router, powered off a double-insulated AC/DC converter of around 10W output? (and not a power tool router - just checking). If so the lighting circuits (normally protected by a 5A fuse or a 6A MCB) are more than adequate to cope with this. The main difficulty you have is that the AC/DC converter is designed to plug straight into a 13A socket. So whilst you could mount a 13A socket up there as a spur off a lighting rose, it must be protected by a fuse of 2A. And you must take steps to ensure that no-one else ever takes the AC/DC converter out and puts a heavy electrical load into the 13A socket.
You could do this by purchasing a switched spur plate like this. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK1060.h tml fitted with a 2A fuse, and running the feed from the ceiling rose through this, then onto the 13A socket. For extra clarification, put a label on the socket warning that it is for maximum loads of 2A.
In my opinion this is safe, but someone will probably tell me it isn't good practice to do and not within the guidelines of BS7671.
I am sure you are talking about a small computer router, powered off a double-insulated AC/DC converter of around 10W output? (and not a power tool router - just checking). If so the lighting circuits (normally protected by a 5A fuse or a 6A MCB) are more than adequate to cope with this. The main difficulty you have is that the AC/DC converter is designed to plug straight into a 13A socket. So whilst you could mount a 13A socket up there as a spur off a lighting rose, it must be protected by a fuse of 2A. And you must take steps to ensure that no-one else ever takes the AC/DC converter out and puts a heavy electrical load into the 13A socket.
You could do this by purchasing a switched spur plate like this. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK1060.h tml fitted with a 2A fuse, and running the feed from the ceiling rose through this, then onto the 13A socket. For extra clarification, put a label on the socket warning that it is for maximum loads of 2A.
In my opinion this is safe, but someone will probably tell me it isn't good practice to do and not within the guidelines of BS7671.
Oh a "rooter" as opposed to a "rowter". I imagined all kinds of woodworking going off up there not stopping at a "rowter" but having a sanding machine & a planer too !
I would look at wiring an extension lead from a plug socket upstairs and into the attic- then connecting a wall type socket instead of an extension lead type socket. It's inexpensive. The "rooter" would run off the sockets upstairs supply and you wouldn't have to worry about fuses and loads etc. Have you an airing cupboard that you could use top channel the wire up instead of drilling the house to bits ? It's amazing how well you would be able to hide the wire if it was planned correctly.
Good luck with your "rooter"
I would look at wiring an extension lead from a plug socket upstairs and into the attic- then connecting a wall type socket instead of an extension lead type socket. It's inexpensive. The "rooter" would run off the sockets upstairs supply and you wouldn't have to worry about fuses and loads etc. Have you an airing cupboard that you could use top channel the wire up instead of drilling the house to bits ? It's amazing how well you would be able to hide the wire if it was planned correctly.
Good luck with your "rooter"
Or you could root around and find an old-fashioned three-pin plug and socket of the round-pin kind that used to be used for table lamps and standard lamps, and are rated at 5 amps. Fitting these would mean it's likely that, of all your electrical stuff, only your router could plug into the socket. Last ones I bought were from B&Q, but that's about 12 years ago.
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