Collagen production

[237SJ]

I need a new night cream and I was looking at one the other day that claimed to stimulate collagen production in the skin. I didn`t look closely enough to read what was in it. I know the cosmetics industry makes some ridiculous claims but is there a substance that can stimulate collagen production?

[theprof]

No, I'm afraid there is no substance that has been demonstrated to stimulate collagen production as an ingredient in a topical cream.

There are complex chemical compounds that have been shown in many in vitro studies and some in vivo studies to potentially stimulate collagen production, but these substances are extremely expensive and there are great technical difficulties in making them available in a cream formulation. Unfortunately, most of the claims made for these creams are based upon these studies.

The cosmetic industry has a reputation for not being as rigorous in respect of R&D as other industries and they do tend to latch on to any piece of research in other industries that will give credence to their often outlandish theories. As a result, beauty products are frequently marketed with very little scientific fact in their support.

[China Doll]

Hi Prof! :c)

Is there any make that you know of that has any basis in science that could work? Or something to look out for? I'm horribly gullible and always want to believe that there's a possible delaying cream for wrinkles and lines (but I don't think there is really).

[gingejbee]

prof: "in vitro" and "in vivo" - not things you see everyday on AB. I knew O-level Latin would be useful, one day!

[237SJ]

Thanks for your answer theprof. I`m glad you said these creams don`t work because the one I was looking at was Lancome at $108 (plus tax) per pot and if it worked I might have had to buy it. As it turns out I got Lacura from Aldi at £1.99 My skin will never know the difference!

[China Doll]

I use the lacura ones, they're seem pretty ok to me :c)

[237SJ]

I`ve heard they`re good China. I bought two night creams the Q10 and the Retinol Q10. For that price I can try them and throw them away if they`re no good. I put a bit of the Q10 on and it seems just what I want. My work environment is extremely dry and the cream was thick and didn`t disappear.

[China Doll]

I use the night cream with the darkish blue lid and the green lid day cream. I've not had any problems with them. I also use their version of that yves sain laurent (sp?) clic thingy and to date, no one has been able to tell the difference.

[theprof]

Hi China

No China, I'm afraid it's all baloney.

My uni Medical School did an expensive research project on a certain well-known manufacturer's skin cream range within the last five years. The study was financed by the manufacturer and they expected a result in their favour that they could use to blab about how good their product was to the world.

The research concluded that the claims made for the product were without foundation and the entire project backfired on the manufacturer. No research paper was ever published about the project and the manufacturer did their best to deny that the research had ever been undertaken.

The company paid me quite handsomely for technical advice on some biochemical aspects of the project but I warned them from the beginning that I was sceptical to say the least.

Sorry, I can't be more exact about the date, but it would be possible to identify my uni, the cosmetics company and even me if I gave more precise information!

[237SJ]

Well the most important thing you can put on your skin for anti-aging is sunblock (all year round). I`m surprised nobody has ever taken cosmetics companies to court over the claims they make. If it was any other industry and the product failed to deliver it`s promises they would be sued but the cosmetics industry always seems to get away with it.

[China Doll]

Thanks prof. I refuse to be seduced by an clarin products ever again because they look appealing and amazing lol!

[theprof]

237SJ, I've always thought that cosmetic companies should be prosecuted for some of their claims. The problem is that in the UK, they only need to wave one research paper around to show that their claims have some credence. In fact, if they could show that their product worked on an animal, that would be a good start and I've even seen claims published on that basis.

There is also another issue over the FDA in the USA which sometimes has a tendency to licence dermatological products for use in the USA without proper research. It's a small step to get these products approved in the rest of the world by underhand methods once they've gained FDA approval.

[theprof]

gingejbee, latin is a great language. I spent many happy lunchtimes conversing with my old latin teacher at school, fondly and aptly known by the nickname "Caesar"!

It's a great shame that latin nowadays tends to be often taught only in public schools rather than in the state system. The language is so very useful when studying the sciences.

[237SJ]

theprof, do you know any of the research scientists at Imperial College? The other day I met a doctor from there who is a geneticist working on research into genetic conditions in pregnancy. Very nice chap and so interesting to talk to.

[theprof]

Yes, I know shedfulls (as my youngest daughter would say!) of researchers and academic staff at ICL 237SJ. Some of the professors there even passed through my hands!

[237SJ]

He loved talking about his job and there were a million questions we wanted to ask him. He needed to sleep though - it was on a flight from Boston.