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how are breakers formed
how are breakers formed
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No I think you are on about breaking waves.
Expln 1. The energy at the top outstrips the energy further down and it topples over itself.
Expln 2 waves comes in two forms ! One is a deep sea wave whose speed doesnt depend on the depth.
A shallow water wave speed does depend on the depth and is slower as it gets shallower.
So a wave when it apporaches a beach tends to bunch up as it goes up the beach as the front is travelling slower than the back. And then it falls over.
well you asked
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