Hiya smudge and tambo,
Agreed that some of the narrow streets of Valletta can be, on occasion, a bit smelly, due to, i think, that the residents wash their balconies and the dirty water from the buckets are emptied on the streets causing a bit of a pong for a bit....near the shops/cafe's/ outdoor bars etc..........all nice to the nostrils :0)
Always go and have a quick one in 'Ollie's Bar' back of the Government building in Main Street...........named after the brilliant Oliver Reed, who sadly passed away there after a massive drinking session on a day break from filming 'Gladiator' about 10 years ago.
Horses and carriages still there, tambo...........in Valletta and all over the island.....best one is in Mdina ( the silent city ).......the tour is good fun and the views are great, but serious haggling needs to be done with the driver on the prices as we knocked them down about 60% when we bluffed we were walking off and not interested. :0)