As is often the case there is one clue on which the word play partially eludes me:
23A Indian widows please, but two characters in the end turned off! (5)
I have S?T?S and fairly certain the answer is SATIS which relates to Indian widows, and replaces GRATIS (please) in the clue. Whilst I can see that GRATIS loses its first two characters, I don't see where the replacement S comes from?