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Thanks, Fitzer - the wiki reference was the one we had already found for ourselves, but many thanks for taking the time to pass it on! It's a really weird plant, also related to tumbleweed. It looks a bit like samphire crossed with asparagus fern, bright green and stalky, but seems to get taller, not broader with each growth spurt. I'm interested in what the Italians actually do with it and if anyone other than the seed supplier we got it from (and us!) is actually growing and using it.