Quizzes & Puzzles2 mins ago
I Dont Understand This!
11 Answers
I have an almost new Status extension reel with a fault that I can't get my head around. When I plug the extension reel plug into the wall socket and switch on, both of the sockets on the reel are dead no matter what I plug into the socket. The 13 amp fuse in the plug is fine and shows continuity on my multimeter.
I've opened the reel to check the gubbins inside. All three cores of the 10m, 1.25mm squared cable are electrically continuous between the plug and the terminals inside the reel.
Now here's the perplexing part. There is a thermal cut out on the face of the reel which you are meant to reset by pushing it down in the event the cable has overheated. However, the thermal cutout won't stay engaged and just pops back up when my finger is removed. The cutout has the live incoming core on one side and a short live core on the other that goes to the first live socket terminal on the reel and then onto the second. I initially suspected that the cutout was faulty and not allowing the juice to flow out to the first socket on the reel. However, when I place a multimeter across the cutout terminals on the cutout, the meter shows full scale deflection no matter if the thermal cut out button is held in or not. I can't see why the voltage is not getting through. The earth and neutral core in the cable reel show continuity
I suppose I could try removing the live cores from the cut out and connecting them together to see if it works, but I'm very loathe to do this from a safety aspect. The cutout doesn't seem to be available as a spare anywhere.
Thank you.
I've opened the reel to check the gubbins inside. All three cores of the 10m, 1.25mm squared cable are electrically continuous between the plug and the terminals inside the reel.
Now here's the perplexing part. There is a thermal cut out on the face of the reel which you are meant to reset by pushing it down in the event the cable has overheated. However, the thermal cutout won't stay engaged and just pops back up when my finger is removed. The cutout has the live incoming core on one side and a short live core on the other that goes to the first live socket terminal on the reel and then onto the second. I initially suspected that the cutout was faulty and not allowing the juice to flow out to the first socket on the reel. However, when I place a multimeter across the cutout terminals on the cutout, the meter shows full scale deflection no matter if the thermal cut out button is held in or not. I can't see why the voltage is not getting through. The earth and neutral core in the cable reel show continuity
I suppose I could try removing the live cores from the cut out and connecting them together to see if it works, but I'm very loathe to do this from a safety aspect. The cutout doesn't seem to be available as a spare anywhere.
Thank you.
Answers
1 to 11 of 11
Best Answer
No best answer has yet been selected by jadyn. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.
Always unreel an extension cable fully from the reel drum before switching it on.
https:/
https:/
Can of worms opened up here, Jadyn.
However, it does sound like a duff cut-out.
To check continuity across IN and OUT of the cut-out, I would use a simple old-school "buzzer" method.
Voltage testers have them built in. One lead to the IN and one lead to the OUT and you'll get a buzzer........... or not, if there's a break.
You're using a meter. That's fine, but it will depend on the type of meter and the scale being used. Some multimeters will deflect the needle automatically as it detects the scale needed.
This can be a nuisance since there may well be a teeny current flowing even though the mains voltage is not getting through.
Sometimes it's enough to move the needle (even if there is no connection to the mains.)
Multimeters have a battery in them. Hence the needle movement.
Er............. possibly ;o(((
However, it does sound like a duff cut-out.
To check continuity across IN and OUT of the cut-out, I would use a simple old-school "buzzer" method.
Voltage testers have them built in. One lead to the IN and one lead to the OUT and you'll get a buzzer........... or not, if there's a break.
You're using a meter. That's fine, but it will depend on the type of meter and the scale being used. Some multimeters will deflect the needle automatically as it detects the scale needed.
This can be a nuisance since there may well be a teeny current flowing even though the mains voltage is not getting through.
Sometimes it's enough to move the needle (even if there is no connection to the mains.)
Multimeters have a battery in them. Hence the needle movement.
Er............. possibly ;o(((
1 to 11 of 11
