ChatterBank4 mins ago
Staining engineered pine doors!
6 Answers
Hi there.
I got some clear pine doors, 7 in total, and I have started coating them with a coloured Colron Danish Oil.
However, the oil isn't taking to all of it. Some patches aren't absorbing it. Is this normal with pine veneer? Or is there maybe glue residue in these areas? I wiped them down with white spirit before staining.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Linda
I got some clear pine doors, 7 in total, and I have started coating them with a coloured Colron Danish Oil.
However, the oil isn't taking to all of it. Some patches aren't absorbing it. Is this normal with pine veneer? Or is there maybe glue residue in these areas? I wiped them down with white spirit before staining.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Linda
Answers
Best Answer
No best answer has yet been selected by Windinmyhair. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.If you mean by the term engineered that the doors are veneered, you'll often find that, during the veneering process, the glue used to afix the veneer to the sub-base weeps through the rather thin veneer. This is probably where you are not achieving a good adherence with the finish. I would lightly sand and steel wool the areas to assure that you are down to the bare sood and then re-finish it as previously... If that doesn't work, I would sand the entire door, prime, as mentioned and do it over again... Good luck!
A product I've used with success is Eco-House Light Linseed Primer Oil... keeping in mind i live in the western U.S., you should be able to find a similar product in the U.K. It's primary (no pun intended) use is as follows from the can:
Outdoors:
For priming and conditioning of absorbent surfaces of wood, stone,brick or clay. Requires a final weather-resistant finish coating.
Indoors :
Same as outdoors, but may also be used as a more economical finish on decorative low-use surfaces, such as furniture, ceilings, doors, wainscoting and other architectural woodwork, which is not frequently exposed to moisture. If used on its own, apply 2-3 coats as desired.
We recommend a finish coat with # 263 Tree Resin & Oil Wood Finish
Outdoors:
For priming and conditioning of absorbent surfaces of wood, stone,brick or clay. Requires a final weather-resistant finish coating.
Indoors :
Same as outdoors, but may also be used as a more economical finish on decorative low-use surfaces, such as furniture, ceilings, doors, wainscoting and other architectural woodwork, which is not frequently exposed to moisture. If used on its own, apply 2-3 coats as desired.
We recommend a finish coat with # 263 Tree Resin & Oil Wood Finish
Related Questions
Sorry, we can't find any related questions. Try using the search bar at the top of the page to search for some keywords, or choose a topic and submit your own question.