Dimmer light problems?

[what..the?]

When I put my lounge lights on full via a dimmer switch I turn the nob round fully for max light level but it only produces an annoying half light then 2 mins later the lights flicker on and off for another min and then finally it reaches full/max light level and stays on.

What is wrong do you think, is there a basic fix or should I get my landlard to sort it?

[Clanad]

The basic dimmer switch you describe consists, primarily of an adjustable resistor that can fail. If your's has a warm feel to the housing or face plate it's probably an older resistor model.. This should be replaced by the newer models that are also resistor controlled, but actually switches the light bulb(s) off and on many times per nano-second, so to speak. Two important considerations for a new switch. Assure you have the correct switch to match the watts being adjusted. Got four bulbs at 100 watts each? Then you'd need at least a controller capable of 500 watts. Additionally, the switch should be the non-buzzing kind (actually, part of the problem with a bussing dimmer switch is not enough wattage capacity)... at any rate, they're not very expensive and fairly easy to change out. Just use caution and be sure to remove the power form the line through the fuse box or circuit breaker and test the line even after that safety step... Best of luck!

[buildersmate]

Sorry, Clanad, domestic lighting dimmers have never been as simple as just a variable resistor. The power consumed by such a device in a small enclosed space would make it unbearably hot in a few seconds. All dimmers are power-choppers of the AC wave in some way - although modern ones have better electronic control.
Check you are not overloading it (they are rated at a power in Watts - often either 250W or 400W for the bigger ones). If you aren't your landlord should sort it - they aren't easily repairable.

[heathfield]

Are you using low-energy bulbs? Some electronic control circuits don't like to work with these. I have some older programmable timers that need ordinary filament lamps - low-energy bulbs will just flicker continuously when the timers try to turn them on.
Just a thought.

[what..the?]

No they just look like nomal candle bulbs.

[heathfield]

Well, that points to a faulty dimmer control. Since it's solid state electronics inside, it will be difficult, if not impossible, to repair. Fitting a new one shouldn't be expensive or a problem, as long as you follow Clanad's advice and switch all the power off before you start. Swap the wires over, one for one, to the new one. If the connector layout is different, look for L1, L2, and E, and swap the wires accordingly into the appropriate connection.

[Clanad]

Could be some differences in design between the UK and the U.S., buildersmate, since y'all use 240V and we use 110... From an autoritative article in Ask the Builder "...The reason dimmer switches get hot is fairly simple. Some dimmers get hotter than others because of their design. Old dimmer switches typically were rheostats that varied the amount of voltage going to the light bulbs. As the rheostat was turn down to lower the voltage, the electricity was changed into heat. These old dimmers wasted lots of energy." Regardless, looks like he/she has to change the switch...

[buildersmate]

Never like that in the UK, Clanad.

[what..the?]

Thank you for all your answers as I have little electrical knowledge and experience. Good with DIY for a girly - have my own tool box and everything, I do all the DIY in my house while me boyfriend sits on his ar**se.... but electric's????

As it is rented the letting agent will send someone round to fix it.

Funny u say about UK/U.S as the owner of the property lives in New York and has fitted half uk and half U.S power sockets round the house, for when he comes back.

Many thanks.