ChatterBank1 min ago
General DIY Questions
8 Answers
Hi all,
I've recently moved into a new house, though it's a pretty old house and I've come across some problems I'm not too sure about. I'll try not to bore you too much...
- My bedroom has inset spotlights, about 8 of them, when I went in the loft the other day I saw that the insulation had massive holes in it where each of these lights are. With them so many, I feel the heat from my radiator is going straight into the roof through these lights and lack of insulation. Is there anything I can do to keep my bedroom warmer, other than remove them?
- I have an en-suite which the hot water pressure is very poor on the shower and basin, but in the bathroom the pressure is fine. The hot water pressure on the kitchen sink isn't great either. It's a DIY en-suite, has it been plumbed badly?
- I had a blub blow on me last night and it tripped the fuse box. When I looked at it (also looks old), I could see the fuse that had tripped, but I couldn't flip the switch back up, it wouldn't stay there. I wiggled the fuse about (silly probably) and tried it again, then it worked. Problem?
- I was advised to run my very old boiler (16th birthday soon) on the lowest temp on the thermostat, but this makes it turn off and on every couple of mins? Doesn't sound like the right thing to do to me?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can advise on any of the above.
Frosty
I've recently moved into a new house, though it's a pretty old house and I've come across some problems I'm not too sure about. I'll try not to bore you too much...
- My bedroom has inset spotlights, about 8 of them, when I went in the loft the other day I saw that the insulation had massive holes in it where each of these lights are. With them so many, I feel the heat from my radiator is going straight into the roof through these lights and lack of insulation. Is there anything I can do to keep my bedroom warmer, other than remove them?
- I have an en-suite which the hot water pressure is very poor on the shower and basin, but in the bathroom the pressure is fine. The hot water pressure on the kitchen sink isn't great either. It's a DIY en-suite, has it been plumbed badly?
- I had a blub blow on me last night and it tripped the fuse box. When I looked at it (also looks old), I could see the fuse that had tripped, but I couldn't flip the switch back up, it wouldn't stay there. I wiggled the fuse about (silly probably) and tried it again, then it worked. Problem?
- I was advised to run my very old boiler (16th birthday soon) on the lowest temp on the thermostat, but this makes it turn off and on every couple of mins? Doesn't sound like the right thing to do to me?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can advise on any of the above.
Frosty
Answers
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1) Agree with Ethel. But I doubt you are losing too much heat from the room through these holes.
2) Its possibly been plumbed with pipe of too small a bore for the volume of water expected to go through for a shower. This limits the capacity to give a good flow.
3) Unless the MCB was very loose, wiggling it around shouldn't do anything. It is screwed to a busbar behind it. Sounds safe to carry on with - see if the circuit trips again.
4) No, this is definitely horlicks. The poor boiler struggles because it isn't being given a chance to heat a decent volume of water before it hits its low cut-out temperature. Turn it up to the middle and see what happens - should stop doing this. Every time a boiler starts and shuts down it wastes energy - and they work better (more efficiently) at a higher temperature. You would get a noticeable saving in energy be changed it when affordable - things have changed a lot in 16 yrs.
2) Its possibly been plumbed with pipe of too small a bore for the volume of water expected to go through for a shower. This limits the capacity to give a good flow.
3) Unless the MCB was very loose, wiggling it around shouldn't do anything. It is screwed to a busbar behind it. Sounds safe to carry on with - see if the circuit trips again.
4) No, this is definitely horlicks. The poor boiler struggles because it isn't being given a chance to heat a decent volume of water before it hits its low cut-out temperature. Turn it up to the middle and see what happens - should stop doing this. Every time a boiler starts and shuts down it wastes energy - and they work better (more efficiently) at a higher temperature. You would get a noticeable saving in energy be changed it when affordable - things have changed a lot in 16 yrs.
the spots generate so much heat they need an air gap for clearence directly above. look at manufacturers instructions for guidence (should be 100mm plus) of any combustible material.is this the size of gap you have in the loft?
an alternative is to fit a fire hood above the spot, but at �14 plus each not a cheap option although ive heard a mate say he used a clay flowerpot with holes to let some of the heat out
if they were mine i would fit the lowest wattage lamp available, you wont notice the difference with 8 spots and the higher wattage lamps just generate heat
3) when the bulb blows it produces a short circuit condition for a fraction of a second and the safety device operates (,m.c.b.) doing what its supposed to.all very normal and you should be reassured because its doing its job
an alternative is to fit a fire hood above the spot, but at �14 plus each not a cheap option although ive heard a mate say he used a clay flowerpot with holes to let some of the heat out
if they were mine i would fit the lowest wattage lamp available, you wont notice the difference with 8 spots and the higher wattage lamps just generate heat
3) when the bulb blows it produces a short circuit condition for a fraction of a second and the safety device operates (,m.c.b.) doing what its supposed to.all very normal and you should be reassured because its doing its job
There are replacement low voltage low heat down lights available now:
http://www.lyco.co.uk/products/30000-Hour-2W-G U5-3-White-LED-Low-Voltage-Spotlight.htm?prodI D=5306
for example
http://www.lyco.co.uk/products/30000-Hour-2W-G U5-3-White-LED-Low-Voltage-Spotlight.htm?prodI D=5306
for example
Thanks all for your answer, I'll have a look at the bulbs if I can get them out. The previous owners never left us the suckers to get the bulbs out, helpful!
I was worried about the fusebox cos the switch wouldn't go back onto till I had wiggled it. Fingers crossed no more blow.
I'm gonna turn the boiler up and see if anything happens, there's no room thermo in the house, so I'm guessing they put it on low since spring time.
I was worried about the fusebox cos the switch wouldn't go back onto till I had wiggled it. Fingers crossed no more blow.
I'm gonna turn the boiler up and see if anything happens, there's no room thermo in the house, so I'm guessing they put it on low since spring time.
You really need a room thermostat somewhere in the house - old systems often had a single one in the hall.
The problem is (and I guess you appreciate this) that there is nothing to stop the CH pump churning water around the rads between all the hours that you have selected on the timer. Because what happens is the pump runs between all the hours you selected until the thermostat tells the pump that the house has warmed up enough and turns it off. As a default, that was why your predecessor though it was a good idea to turn the boiler temp down. Retrofitting a thermostat probably isn't difficult for an electrician to do, but with the system being so old it is better to upgrade the system when you can afford it. Boilers don't last however and if it does break parts may be difficult for the technician to source.
The problem is (and I guess you appreciate this) that there is nothing to stop the CH pump churning water around the rads between all the hours that you have selected on the timer. Because what happens is the pump runs between all the hours you selected until the thermostat tells the pump that the house has warmed up enough and turns it off. As a default, that was why your predecessor though it was a good idea to turn the boiler temp down. Retrofitting a thermostat probably isn't difficult for an electrician to do, but with the system being so old it is better to upgrade the system when you can afford it. Boilers don't last however and if it does break parts may be difficult for the technician to source.
Thanks buildersmate, it did seem a bit strange not to have a room thermo. Touching the rads half of them don't seem to be kicking out as much heat as I would expect. While the top is hot the bottom and return pipe is only warm, so I'm guessing the whole system maybe a bit sludgy. I'll get someone round to service the boiler and gas fire (as I'm not convinced that's safe to run, as it gives me headaches when switched on) and ask them about the whole thing.
It's also depressing that I'm needing to put the CH on so early, damn this cold house. Walls are solid so no chance of cavity insul, and there's about at least 100mm of insul glass fibre in the loft. The windows are old DG with wood fittings, so I can see this being the only other thing I can replace to heat up the house somewhat. The windows and poss a new boiler / system, crimbo is on the cheap this year :)
It's also depressing that I'm needing to put the CH on so early, damn this cold house. Walls are solid so no chance of cavity insul, and there's about at least 100mm of insul glass fibre in the loft. The windows are old DG with wood fittings, so I can see this being the only other thing I can replace to heat up the house somewhat. The windows and poss a new boiler / system, crimbo is on the cheap this year :)
As relates to the spotlights you describe; The portion of the receptacle above the ceiling should, no, must be shrouded. There are two kinds of recessed lights as you describe... one can be installed where there is no insulation as in a drop ceiling or suspended ceiling. (Here's a picture: http://www.lampsplus.com/products/41551/?sourc eid=DFMSNSH41551&cm_mmc=MSN-SH-_-Recessed%20Li ghting-_-Recessed%20Lighting-_-41551 ).The other type is built to be in contact with insulation but only if approved. It's basically a metal box with the actual light inside and airspace between that and the outside that contacts the insulation. Here's a picture: http://www.amazon.com/Lighting-One-Light-Reces sed-Ceiling-P201ICW/dp/B0009J8RSE ... At least to meet code here in the U.S.
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