Well, you've really made great progress, Booldawg... from the initial question concerning structure to now the soil.
Let me suggest that if you're going to use topsoil from some place on your property vs. having it hauled in by the cubic yard, I'd consider not using the horse manure. Here, on our ranch in the western U.S., we have a number of horses. If you look (as I have, for health of the horse determination!) at the horse apples you'd find that hey are largely undigested vegetation. This means any weed seeds (and there are thousands) are still in the manure. This applies to even "aged" manure. This, along with the inherent weed seeds in the resident topsoil will cause you a great deal of work.
Since you really don't need that much manure on good topsoil (for each cubic foot about 1/4 of that amount), Id use bagged manure from a garden supply store. It's been radiated to kill the weed seeds. (Make sure the bag says so!). I'm here to tell you that you could wake up one morning about two weeks after applying the soil with a vast extpanse of various and sundry weeds.
I'd also consider using bagged topsoil. Here, a bag containing 1 cubic foot is about 87 cents, U.S., which is quite reasonable and it's usually good quality.
If you choose to use your own, though, I'd mix in another 1/4 of the amount in sharp sand. Topsoil usually contains a mixture including clay. This needs to ameliorated and sand does a good job of that.
One other thing I've used successfully; for assuring proper watering, it's very easy to use lengths of "soaker hose" for the purpose. I'm sure you know this is an inexpensive product (I think you all call it hose pipe) made from recycled tires (tyres?). It leaks water evenly and does a really good job of keeping the soil moist without washing effect. Continued Good luck!