ChatterBank4 mins ago
Sealing Garage Doors/ Insulating Garage for Workshop Use
13 Answers
Hi,
I intend to turn my integral double garage into a workshop/games room.
My plan is to erect a plasterboard stud wall in front of the existing garage doors which are to be left in situ. Any suggestions as to how best to weatherproof the doors from the inside. I thought of packing the gaps as best I can before lining with plastic sheeting then using 3x2 to build a frame,pack with insulation and then plasterboard. Does this sound ok?
The outer walls are brick and there are blocks on the inside. Would it be good enough just to line with plasterboard or would there be a considerable benefit in using 3x2 and insulation again. I would like it to be as warm as possible inside when finished.
When completed I intend to heat with either a convector heater or possibly an oil filled electric radiator. Any suggestions on most efficient/cost effective?
Finally any suggestions for good insulation material. Thanks in advance!
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I intend to turn my integral double garage into a workshop/games room.
My plan is to erect a plasterboard stud wall in front of the existing garage doors which are to be left in situ. Any suggestions as to how best to weatherproof the doors from the inside. I thought of packing the gaps as best I can before lining with plastic sheeting then using 3x2 to build a frame,pack with insulation and then plasterboard. Does this sound ok?
The outer walls are brick and there are blocks on the inside. Would it be good enough just to line with plasterboard or would there be a considerable benefit in using 3x2 and insulation again. I would like it to be as warm as possible inside when finished.
When completed I intend to heat with either a convector heater or possibly an oil filled electric radiator. Any suggestions on most efficient/cost effective?
Finally any suggestions for good insulation material. Thanks in advance!
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Answers
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Captain ............ unless you're in a listed building you won't need planning consent.
Building regs is another matter. Normally, any conversion to a "habitable" space will need approval. Yours is difficult. There's nothing to stop anyone from making their garage or workshop a little "cosier". When does it become "habitable" though. You could just keep quiet if it is only a worshop ( I couldn't possibly comment ............. ahem .......... ) . I would guess that Building Control would take the view that it is to be altered so much that it COULD possibly be habitable. I'm afraid that the only way to be sure is to contact them. You could do it under a "Building Notice" ................ no drawings needed............ the Inspector will then tell you what he wants to see done in order to comply.
Building regs is another matter. Normally, any conversion to a "habitable" space will need approval. Yours is difficult. There's nothing to stop anyone from making their garage or workshop a little "cosier". When does it become "habitable" though. You could just keep quiet if it is only a worshop ( I couldn't possibly comment ............. ahem .......... ) . I would guess that Building Control would take the view that it is to be altered so much that it COULD possibly be habitable. I'm afraid that the only way to be sure is to contact them. You could do it under a "Building Notice" ................ no drawings needed............ the Inspector will then tell you what he wants to see done in order to comply.
Carrying out the works under a 'Building Notice' may have implications when you come to sell. There will be NO certificate issued to confirm that the works have been carried out to and satisfying current Building regulations and your buyers Solicitor will want some sort of confirmation that they have.
You will then need to spend 125% of the cost of making an application NOW, in order to get such confirmation (and there may be problems gaining such approval).
Get plans drawn up and professionally annotated..........it may saves headaches later.
You will then need to spend 125% of the cost of making an application NOW, in order to get such confirmation (and there may be problems gaining such approval).
Get plans drawn up and professionally annotated..........it may saves headaches later.
Good advice by all, but I would add that, at least here in the U.S., an additional consideration would come into play. I assume your garage door is at least 9 feet wide and perhaps wider (ours is 16 feet). Building codes here, even for renovations, requires electrical outlets (plug-ins) each 6 feet along a running wall. Chances are that the outlets would be required to be on seperate ciruits from existing ones to assure no overloads. Jsut a thought...
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Hi Cpt Jablite( whit polystyrene) offers a very good thermal barrier 25 mm 8x4 would I think give you ample insulation,the builder may give you better spec than me though, sandwiched between 15mm thick 8x4 chip or MDF or strand boards raised off the floor 15/20mm ( to prevent moisture pick up ) this gap covered by skirting later if required all fixed to the block work with counter sunk 85 mm approx screws at 500mm centers.
The boards could be decorated later and easily removed hth Tez
The boards could be decorated later and easily removed hth Tez
Sorry if I've muddied the waters for you Captain ............ just a couple of points.
Thank you bushbaby........... that's quite right, but I was assuming the case that there are no conditions.
Thank you Jackthehat.......... but it just depends on the local authority ........ the many that I have worked with certainly DO give a Completion Certificate on a Building notice if you ASK for one................ otherwise they assume it's not required.
Thank you bushbaby........... that's quite right, but I was assuming the case that there are no conditions.
Thank you Jackthehat.......... but it just depends on the local authority ........ the many that I have worked with certainly DO give a Completion Certificate on a Building notice if you ASK for one................ otherwise they assume it's not required.
i am doing this with my garage and i had a chat with my building inspector who was looking at my extension.very helpful, just 50mm insulation board and screed on the floor, dry line the walls and remove the garage door and brick up the opening.large garage (22ft x 12ft) turned into a family room. if you want a temporary solution that you might remove afterwards and the above tasks are too much, just do the minimum w/o informing anyone.perhaps measure the temperature before and after garage door is insulated in the area you intend to work in to see if it makes a lot of difference
then before you sell, someday maybe, remove the temporary wall
then before you sell, someday maybe, remove the temporary wall
I would say your main problem would be getting a happy medium between 'temporary' as in removing your work should you wish to sell, and investing money in insulating it for comfortable use. We converted an outhouse in a previous house to a habitable room, with consent and under Building Regs. We had to insulate all walls, ceiling and floor and used Kingspan. No problem because it keeps it warmer and was a permanent change. But it was a fair bit of expense and work and not something I'd entertain if I was viewing it as temporary.
I'd be inclined to ask advice of Building Control at your council. They are, as stated here, very helpful. Because of the comfort factor, and despite the fact it helps that your garage is integral, I think you would be wiser to convert it properly and with consent. A future buyer can decide what he wants to do regarding it's use and need only remove the door insulation and boarding to reinstate it as a garage. But you will have provided maximum comfort for your use of it as a games room. I would suggest that should it go on the market then converted properly, with or without garage door, it would add value if a buyer prefers an extra room.
If you don't do it properly you may find it uncomfy, slow and expensive to heat, and in colder months you'll prefer to be in front of the tv instead!
I'd be inclined to ask advice of Building Control at your council. They are, as stated here, very helpful. Because of the comfort factor, and despite the fact it helps that your garage is integral, I think you would be wiser to convert it properly and with consent. A future buyer can decide what he wants to do regarding it's use and need only remove the door insulation and boarding to reinstate it as a garage. But you will have provided maximum comfort for your use of it as a games room. I would suggest that should it go on the market then converted properly, with or without garage door, it would add value if a buyer prefers an extra room.
If you don't do it properly you may find it uncomfy, slow and expensive to heat, and in colder months you'll prefer to be in front of the tv instead!
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