Crosswords0 min ago
grouting between bricks
2 Answers
we're putting terracotta tiles along the top of a raised oblong pond (now a flower bed) due to the frost having got into, and crumbled, the top layer of reclaimed bricks which the pond is made of.
laying the tiles is not so much of a problem, but grouting between them is!! does anyone have any tips on how to grout neatly please? we've so far done one edge and to be honest it looks awful :(
we don't want the grout to be level with the tiles, but to be pressed down into the gap. should something be added to the mortar mix to make it more pliable, should the little tool we have be dipped into something so the mortar doesn't stick, should the mortar be wet/dry..........??
i would be very grateful for any help before we make a complete cods of why is actually a really nice feature in the garden.
laying the tiles is not so much of a problem, but grouting between them is!! does anyone have any tips on how to grout neatly please? we've so far done one edge and to be honest it looks awful :(
we don't want the grout to be level with the tiles, but to be pressed down into the gap. should something be added to the mortar mix to make it more pliable, should the little tool we have be dipped into something so the mortar doesn't stick, should the mortar be wet/dry..........??
i would be very grateful for any help before we make a complete cods of why is actually a really nice feature in the garden.
Answers
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No best answer has yet been selected by ethandron. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.The issue with unglazed tiles is that the mortar sticks to it and indeed sinks into the surface that touches the tile.
The way I would do it is with wet mortar, strong (say 1:4), making the whole surface wet first (to thoroughly wet the substrate under where the grout lines will be). Yes, I know the tiles will also get wet.
Then with wet mortar and a pointing towel (sharp point, about 4 inches long diamond-shaped blade) I'd run the mortar into the gaps. Then leave it to go off a bit - probably 30 minutes, before brushing any that has got onto the tile edges off.
You are perhaps spending too much time trying to 'wipe' the excess off at the time of doing whilst it is still wet. That makes things worse perhaps you wipe wet mortar onto the tiles where it will mark. Wait until the excess has dried but not gone hard - then it brushes off.
The way I would do it is with wet mortar, strong (say 1:4), making the whole surface wet first (to thoroughly wet the substrate under where the grout lines will be). Yes, I know the tiles will also get wet.
Then with wet mortar and a pointing towel (sharp point, about 4 inches long diamond-shaped blade) I'd run the mortar into the gaps. Then leave it to go off a bit - probably 30 minutes, before brushing any that has got onto the tile edges off.
You are perhaps spending too much time trying to 'wipe' the excess off at the time of doing whilst it is still wet. That makes things worse perhaps you wipe wet mortar onto the tiles where it will mark. Wait until the excess has dried but not gone hard - then it brushes off.
thanks for those tips. i've just had a go and actually they look a lot neater than the ones 'he' did :) gave it all a good brush too and that made a heck of a difference.
i think you're right in that we're spending too much time fiddling around with it, just makes it worse. it looks soooo easy when you see an expert doing it, not quite so easy when you have a go yourself.
many thanks.
i think you're right in that we're spending too much time fiddling around with it, just makes it worse. it looks soooo easy when you see an expert doing it, not quite so easy when you have a go yourself.
many thanks.
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