WOODEN GARAGE DOORS

[bluebird34]

My wooden garage doors swell in the winter and I cannot open them. Is there anything i can do now to stop this happening. Thanks

[scotman]

If they are swelling by a small enough amount you could plane them down a little now.

[bluebird34]

Thanks Scotman how much will a plane cost me please, despite my sign in name I am a woman lol Janet

[albaqwerty]

A good plane could cost in excess of 20 quid (would put the pound sign but my keyboard has other ideas at the mo)
It's hard work and be careful how much you take off, due to the shrinkage in the summer (I'm sorry, I know you know that) as you could be left with an unsightly space.
We had wooden garage doors, unfortunately, him what made them isn't in at the moment.

[bluebird34]

Thanks alba lot of money for one use may have to find me a man with a plane! thanks x

[albaqwerty]

I've been thinking (a dangerous thing for my brain cell) could/would vaseline help to grease the doors?

I take it both sides open up, a bit like a front door on one side and the reverse on the other side?

[nannybooby]

are the sides and bottom of the doors painted or bare wood

[nannybooby]

if the bottom and sides are not sealed with paint this could be your problem as to why they are swelling. ts not a good idea to plane them in the wet weatherr as alberqwerty says they will have a big gap around them in the warmer weather ,you needed to plane them in the summer - sorry.

[Old_Geezer]

You can sand the door down more cheaply than buy a plane. Seal the finished result with varnish or paint or something similar.

Or you could remove the doors in Autumn and use it as a car port until Spring.

[jomifl]

If when you have planed the edge of the door whilst it is swollen, you end up with a gap in the summer, simply fasten a strip of wood on the outside of the door you close last so that it covers the gap.

[vivandorron]

nannybooby is correct about the importance of side and bottom edges being sealed. However, it's not always easy to paint the bottom edge of a door if there is only a small gap from the 'floor'. Hence the reason for 'dripper bars' being affixed to the bottoms of outside doors.

Bearing in mind what other respondents have said. If you feel that a bit of planing is required and you want a cheap tool for the purpose I would suggest something along the lines of following, which you can buy at most DIY shops.:-

http://www.my-tool-sh...104/product_info.html

Ron.

[The Builder]

I just wanted to underline what jomifl has said. A simple trim-strip. Wide enough to still cover the gap even when the doors shrink.
It can be fitted inside if preferred, where it would also act as a "stop" for the second door to close on. Stops a lot of the "wobble".

[bluebird34]

Goodness i am overwhelmed at so many answers all of them with such good advice. I like the look of the block plane and may buy that and have a go. The doors are stained and seem to swell just above and below the lock. thank you all for your time i shall definitely have a go at some of your suggestions x Janet

[vivandorron]

Hi Janet....In view of the fact that the doors are swelling in the areas of the lock, it is my opinion that rain is running down the edges of the doors and there is not a good seal between the timber and the lock; which I assume is rebated.

Being a do-it-yourselfer, I would be bridging the lock edges with an adhesive tape such as ( dare I say it on AB without being guilty of advertising) Elastoplast or similar. It should give a good seal and I feel sure will last at least one winter and would not be difficult to replace at any time. You could of course stain it to the same colour as your doors.

Ron.