lights in loft (height issue)

[what..the?]

I'm 6 ft and in the loft convesion the electrican has just put up a standard ceiling rose dangle type lights and then I have been told the cord could be shortened if needed. It would still mean having an uplighting (upside down) shade as anything with too much drop to it i will catch my head. Quite frankly anything at all close to my head height feels uncomfortable if that makes sense.

I have sourced some well priced flush ceiling mounted lights with a glass dome which screws into the holder, they are frosted glass, there is one ligh fitting per small loft room a two on the large landing. Will these give off enough light? I am trying the find one that does at least take a 60w bulb as some take upto 40w only. Has ayone got these are they bright enough?

[The Builder]

Go for halogen 230v lights Mrs What. Fit two 40w if necessary. That'll be plenty bright enough. All the electrician has to do is to remove the rose and pendant, cut a hole, and fit them in place.

[what..the?]

is there any chance I can bother you for a photo or link for the light you suggest as I haven't a clue what that is lol ty

[Hopkirk]

Gat a floor standing uplighter, and you can reposition it if you move the furniture around.

http://www.lightingst...up%20close%282%29.jpg

[what..the?]

I think to ask to two lights might increase the cost even more now, he has already said to swap the lights as he has cut the wires to fit the rose/pendant fitting he may have to add more wire = cost of extra wire and 2 hours fitting. so can i have one light which is bright enough?

[what..the?]

yeah got two of them thanks hopkirk good additional option

[what..the?]

this was the one i was looking at:

http://www.wickes.co....ht-steel/invt/162000/

[ChuckFickens]

You'd also have to either remove any loft insulation from around the fitting or fit a protective cover if you fit a flush fitting.

[what..the?]

well I think the one I am looking at is kind of flush in the sense it is flat on the ceiling but not flush in terms it going into the loft space/roof and therefore needs insulation moving. I don't know if the thebuilders suggestion requires this though?

[Old_Geezer]

The instructions on my kitchen halogen required removing insulation from near the fitting so yes, I guess that would be standard practice (unless you want it overheating and blowing the bulb more often). But the light instructions should tell you anyway.

[The Builder]

Just one example Mrs What............. 40,60, 100w

http://www.tlc-direct...ns_Voltage/index.html

Edison screw bulb non halogen. Click on the link for fire hoods/covers to meet building regs on heat protection.

[The Builder]

Halogens .............

http://www.tlc-direct...ed_Downlights_Gu_Cast

[what..the?]

thanks for that but i do think my electrician will charge me a fortune to swap to halogens now as we only have one hole drilled and one wire to it. I assume you would need more than 1. I have bought 4 of the ones I showed a link to, but can return them. I will ask the electrician about the halogens Monday when I see him, fingers crossed halogens are a possibility. Thanks

[Krystalpig]

I would go for the cheapest to run, fluorescent are very low wattage and usually have a cover over the tube so it is not easily broken. There are small ones that can be plugged into bayonet light fittings, I believe.