Buying A Second Hand Car. (Petrol)

[Cmitchell]

Hi folks, let me start by saying I am not a mechanic, and neither is my hubby. We are going to look at three cars tomorrow, just want the lowdown on checking the "mechanics" of the car. [we know about log books how many owners, services, mots etc & HPI checks etc etc and not to mention if it seems too good to be true, and such anomalies as wear on pedals & seatbelts that don't correlate to mileage]

So what to do while engine is cold? What to do while engine is running?

A friend mentioned taking a cap off while engine is running, something about pressure (this must be the engine block I assume not the rad!)

What am I doing when I dip the oil stick (cold & running)?

Smoke?

Any other tips guys?

All help much appreciated.

Oh and I've read the reviews and know what to avoid in this model.

thanks a million guys!!

[Buenchico]

Check that the engine really is cold when you arrive to test it. (If it's just been running that might suggest that it can be difficult to start and the seller has had it running to 'warm it up').

Then turn the hazard lights on and leave them on (noting how bright they are). See below for an explanation.

With the engine still cold (and the car on a level surface), check that the oil on the dipstick is between the 'min' & 'max' marks. (If someone can't even be bothered to top the oil up before offering a car for sale, they've probably not done much else worthwhile to it either!). Check that there's no 'sludge' on the bottom of the dipstick (because that could indicate that the oil hasn't been changed for ages).

Then remove the oil filler cap and look at the surface of the oil. (Hint: Take a small torch; it makes it a lot easier!). It should be just as if you're looking at fresh oil still in its original container. If there's any 'mayonnaise' apparent, don't even consider buying the car (unless you want a bill for around £800 when the head gasket goes in the very near future!).

Turn the key to release the steering lock but don't start the engine. One of you should sit in the car and turn the steering wheel to-and-fro, while the other person watches their movements and those of the front wheels at the same time. If there's any 'play' (with the front wheels not moving at the very instant the steering wheel is turned) don't buy the car. (Steering faults can be expensive!).

Then carry out some checks on the condition of the seatbelts and anything else that doesn't require you to start the engine (such as looking for dents, scratches and signs of repair).

When you've exhausted everything you can do without starting the engine, take another look at the hazard lights. If they're dimmer than they were originally that means there's not much charge in the battery, suggesting it, or the alternator, has a fault. (You can then turn the hazard lights off).

Check that the car starts first time, preferably with one of you still standing alongside it to listen for any strange noises and to watch for smoke coming from the exhaust. (A bit of white water vapour is normal. Clouds of black smoke aren't!).

Then leave the engine running for a while, while you look underneath to see if any water or oil is dripping onto the ground.

When you take it for a test drive, use all your senses. Your eyes are for the road but your ears and your nose should concentrating on the car. Listen for rumbling or squealing sounds (suggesting perhaps a duff wheel bearing) and be alert for a smoky smell (which could be a brake binding, especially if there's a grinding sound as well) or one like electrical burning (which usually means that the clutch is about to fail).

Put the car into 5th gear at around 30mph and then try to increase speed. It should gradually build up. If it doesn't, suspect a clutch fault.

Check that you can find all the gears easily, including reverse! (I knew a very experienced car dealer who paid thousands of pounds for a Range Rover in apparently immaculate condition. It wasn't until he tried to park it on his forecourt that he found out there was no reverse gear!)

Remember to check that the heating (and, if relevant, the air conditioning) is fully working. Also check the radio.

OK. Those are just a few starting points. I'm sure that others will offer lots more but here are a few suggestions from the AA as well:
http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/car-buyers-guide/cbg_usedtips.html

[Buenchico]

PS: Make sure your test drive takes you onto roads with a higher speed limit than 30mph. The 'roar' of a real wheel bearing going, for example, often doesn't become apparent until you reach around 50mph.

Similarly the 'judder' that you can feel through the steering wheel if there's a problem with the wheel alignment or tracking often only becomes noticeable at higher speeds.

[sherrardk]

I seem to remember that you need to check the date tag on the seat belts to make sure they match the age of the car (or I could be talking rubbish).

[Cmitchell]

Great answers guys, thanks sooo much. Will bullet point these and take these along with us. Also have seen 2 good vids (one US and one UK) re buying a second hand car, will bullet point those as well. Already feeling a little more consfident, so thanks a lot guys. : ) x

[SirOracle]

If you are not "mechanical" as you have indicated then if you have any connection with a motor mechanic then see if he is willing to come along with you and check over the car.

If not then the AA offer this service for a reasonable cost. This could save you a lot of money in the long run.

Happy hunting.

[TWR]

Sir, I was just about to say that until I'd seen your post, Cm, Too many people come on here asking for advice regards car buying without the help of a Mechanic, only to come back on here a few weeks / months later saying, " We should have taken your advice" there are very many things unseen by the buyer, things that are out of your vision, Cam Belts, Clutch, Brake Disks / Pads that may need changing, it is well worth £30 or more to save you £££££££££££££££ is your purchase goes wrong, also, do not touch the "SO CALLED EXTRA WARRANTEE" they are not worth the paper they are written on, Take Heed, you have been " WARNED"

[MantaRay]

A useful start point for any vehicle is a recent MOT pass preferably with no advisories.

[SpikeyBush]

Sherrardk I found that most parts of trim have a date stamp somewhere on them. Choose an easily removable item like the ashtray. If the car is on a 58 plate and the date of manufacture on the ashtray is 2011 then the car is not necessarily a wrong'un, the ashtray may have broken and been replaced but it should prompt further checks elsewhere.