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Tips For Squeecky Stairs
How to make my stairs quiet stairs
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Reference Buenchicos link.
That may be a recommended way Americans do it, but the fixing tripod used isn't anything I've seen in the UK.
If you get gain access from below, what I do is screw and glue upwards through the base of the treads into the riser above it.
Sometimes you also have to remake or reglue/rescrew any wedges that are jammed into the sides (the stringers) of the structure.
Obviously only necessary to pay attention in the areas that squeak.
That may be a recommended way Americans do it, but the fixing tripod used isn't anything I've seen in the UK.
If you get gain access from below, what I do is screw and glue upwards through the base of the treads into the riser above it.
Sometimes you also have to remake or reglue/rescrew any wedges that are jammed into the sides (the stringers) of the structure.
Obviously only necessary to pay attention in the areas that squeak.
I have to say that I would definitely go with getting at it from underneath, as BM has said.
Locate the bouncy tread, and go to the mid-point.
From underneath... find the riser that sits underneath the tread in question
Screw or glue (if the riser is very thin) a small block of timber to the riser about 2-3mm down from the underside of the tread.
When this is solid, lightly hammer a timber wedge (with a bit of glue) into the 2-3mm gap until the tread is solid to walk on.
Repeat as necessary
Make tea
:o)
Locate the bouncy tread, and go to the mid-point.
From underneath... find the riser that sits underneath the tread in question
Screw or glue (if the riser is very thin) a small block of timber to the riser about 2-3mm down from the underside of the tread.
When this is solid, lightly hammer a timber wedge (with a bit of glue) into the 2-3mm gap until the tread is solid to walk on.
Repeat as necessary
Make tea
:o)
My home was built circa 1980 and all the floorboards are made of chipboard, and so the whole house creaks with every step.
Neighbours who have attempted to eliminate/reduce the noise, report that within a year or so the problem returns. The reason being that chipboard does not have the wood-grain structure which can endure compression from a screw head.
If I had control of building regulations, I would not allow the stuff to be used as floorboards.
Neighbours who have attempted to eliminate/reduce the noise, report that within a year or so the problem returns. The reason being that chipboard does not have the wood-grain structure which can endure compression from a screw head.
If I had control of building regulations, I would not allow the stuff to be used as floorboards.
Hymie - I've never heard that about woodgrain and compression. That's interesting.
Usually, any problem with T&G chipboard floors is a result of them not being fitted properly.
T&G chipboard should be glued & screwed. Neat PVA or similar should be poured into the groove before fitting. Then. either ring-shank nails or 65mm screws should be used to fit it.
The other big problem is when insufficient expansion gaps are used. 10mm at the perimeters (covered by the skirting. Also, most important, gaps left at door thresholds - essential to give board room to expand/contract.
Usually, any problem with T&G chipboard floors is a result of them not being fitted properly.
T&G chipboard should be glued & screwed. Neat PVA or similar should be poured into the groove before fitting. Then. either ring-shank nails or 65mm screws should be used to fit it.
The other big problem is when insufficient expansion gaps are used. 10mm at the perimeters (covered by the skirting. Also, most important, gaps left at door thresholds - essential to give board room to expand/contract.
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