Kitchen Door Hinge Pulled Out Of Carcass

[sparkymick]

its a 'salice' hinge held in place by an allen screw into a nylon inset - this seems fine. towards the rear of the cabinet the hinge is fixed by a allen screw to a nylon bung that was glued into the carcass.
the door has been opened to far and pulled the bung out.
what is the best glue to use. the bung does not fit too snuggly, but it seems its always been that way.

thank you.

[bookbinder]

Try superglue, although even then the repair probably won't stand up to the door being opened too far. But, if you're careful with the door, it should be OK.

[mrs_overall]

Superglue is the best, but the door will never be the same again and you will have to be very careful with it

[TWR]

I would use a Raw Plug Sparky.

[sparkymick]

but the bung is a sort of plug. about 9mm diameter going into a 10mm hole and about 10mm deep. the bung has grooves to hold the glue - they go round the bung rather than along.

[sparkymick]

this glue has to able to fill the hole as well as being adhesive - if you se what i mean.

thanks

[tonyav]

You could give the gel type of superglue a try.

[tonyav]

Or some No Nails type of glue a try.

[stuey]

Would a thick "paste" of carpenters' glue and sawdust work?

[bookbinder]

Give the bung a generous coat of glue, then wrap some PTFE tape around it, to give a bit of packing, then apply more glue on top of the tape.

[bookbinder]

...or you could try this:
http://www.loctite.co.uk/news-4082_5305_UKE_HTML.htm

[vulcan42]

The problem with gluing a bung into an oversize hole is you're relying only on the glue to hold the bung in place. The best way is to buy dowel rod larger then the bung, drill the door to suit the dowel and then glue that into place. Now you have a solid piece of wood to drill out to the right size for the bung and then reglue.

[The Builder]

What you need, Mick, is a "thixotropic" carpenter's glue. It means that it foams and expands as it cures.............

http://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-polyurethane-wood-adhesive-310ml/40778

You'd need to hold the bung in place (maybe tape or a clamp) while it cures. Otherwise the pressure of the glue expanding will push the bung right out again.

[sparkymick]

Builder, what about 'no nails' or similar.
thanks

[paddywak]

Use Araldite,if it was good enough to hold Mosquitos,one of the finest planes to come out of WW11, together hanging a cupboard door shouldn't pose a problem

[The Builder]

"No Nails" is a good adhesive, but it's what's known as a "grab adhesive". It doesn't expand on curing. It is a good gap filler though, so I can't see why it wouldn't work, except that I wouldn't be confident that it will stick well enough to the nylon.

The great advantage with Thixotropics is that they need a tiny amount of damp to cure. If the porous surface is dampened slightly, then I'd expect the final joint to be almost unbreakable.

It's the glue we use to "biscuit-joint" strips of timber together to make up worktops, butcher's blocks etc.

[The Builder]

Actually, thinking about it, Paddy's quite right. Araldite, being a 2-pack (glue plus hardener) can produce a very strong joint. It's another good option.

[BRIGHT SPARK]

Use 2 pack car body filler.