How is 'smoked' fish smoked

A.� The art of smoking fish is an ancient one, but it is still thriving in traditional smokehouses around Britain. Many places smoke fish - anything from salmon, mackerel, trout and even cod's roe - over whole oak logs, as oak gives fish a nice, sweet smoke. Fish cured in this way picks up the flavour of the smoke, but smoking is, in fact, the last stage in the preserving process.

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Q.� How is it done

A.� To start with, the fish is either salted or brined to extract moisture, then it is hung up and air-dried, before going to the smokehouse.

There are two types of smoking. In cold smoking - used for haddock, salmon and herring - care is taken not to cook the fish and the process is done under 29C. With hot smoking, the temperature is higher so the fish is lightly cooked. The result, like Arbroath Smokies (made from young haddock) or mackerel, has a stronger, smokier flavour.

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Q.� Why was fish smoked in the first place

A.� In times gone by, before fridges and deep freezers were invented, it was traditional to turn to preserved fish in the depths of winter, since fresh fish could be in short supply. Smoked fish is now eaten all year round, and many bars and restaurants specialise in kippers, smoked Finnan haddock or Arbroath Smokies. Smoked fish tends to be oily fish so it is useful in lowering cholestrol and is quite a healthy option.

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Q.� What's the best way to serve smoked fish

A. Many chefs agree the best way is to keep things simple. Smoked salmon is traditionally served with lemon and brown bread, smoked trout is frequently served with horseradish sauce, and smoked mackerel goes well with a mustard sauce.

Smoked fish is the basis of cullen skink, a Scottish soup made from dyed smoked haddock. It also works well in fish pies or with rice in kedgeree.

Try a Smoked Haddock and Mustard Chowder, which is a hearty winter soup recipe taken from Gordon Ramsay's A Chef For All Seasons. He suggests boiling four quail's eggs for two and a half minutes. These should be peeled and halved and placed on the soup just prior to serving.

You will need:

1 large undyed Finnan haddock fillet,
about 400g-500g

500ml milk

2 large waxy potatoes

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large shallot

100ml dry white wine

500ml fish stock

90ml double cream

1 heaped tbsp coarsegrain mustard

Sea salt and fresh black pepper

Method: Cut the haddock fillet in two or three pieces to fit into a large saucepan. Bring the milk to the boil in the saucepan and then add smoked fish. Remove the pan from the heat and leave for around 10 minutes. By this time, the fish will feel firm when pressed. Lift out the fish, strain the milk and reserve. Skin and flake the fish while still warm. Set aside.

Peel the potatoes and cut into small dice. Heat the oil and saute the potatoes with the shallots for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until lightly coloured. Add the wine and cook until reduced. Pour in the stock and reserved milk. Season and bring to the boil, stirring once or twice. Simmer for 15 minutes until the potatoes feel just tender. Whiz the mixture in a blender until just smooth. Return to the pan and blend in the cream. Briskly stir in the mustard and check seasoning again. Gradually stir in the flaked haddock, reheat gently and serve - with the quail's eggs.

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by Katharine MacColl