Crosswords0 min ago
Fixing Satellite Dish Pole To Wall
3 Answers
Hi all
The external walls of my home have recently been professionaly clad with Permarock wall insulation, cement rendered and have small marble-like stones on top. The thickness of the Permarock plus the render is about 85mm. The house walls are ordinary orange brick.
My satellite dish was attached to the brick wall by two square brackets (with a shaped central section for a pole) supporting a dog leg pole (to pass the guttering)with the dish attached via a u-bracket just above roof level.
The contractor employed an idiot to reattach the pole and dish following the job. Each of the two square brackets has a large hole in the corner that looks like it's for use with a coach bolt. The man only fitted two bolts/ screws on each bracket and it looks very dodgy and I'm concerned that whatever fixing he used, it may not be going through the Permarock into the wall - Permarock is not designed to be load bearing.
Could I have some advice on the best fixings to fix the brackets to the wall please? The holes in the bracket are too large for even a No 12 screw as I see it and I can't see how I could insert some sort of wall plug into the brick through the Permarock without damaging the Permarock. A coach bolt would need a plug too. I've seen sleeve anchors that Window installers use but the head of the screw in the fixing is too small for the hole and I don't really want to use washers. Besides, I don't know if they would take the weight. I want to do the job myself rather than get the man back, and Sky would charge me to do the job.
Thank you
The external walls of my home have recently been professionaly clad with Permarock wall insulation, cement rendered and have small marble-like stones on top. The thickness of the Permarock plus the render is about 85mm. The house walls are ordinary orange brick.
My satellite dish was attached to the brick wall by two square brackets (with a shaped central section for a pole) supporting a dog leg pole (to pass the guttering)with the dish attached via a u-bracket just above roof level.
The contractor employed an idiot to reattach the pole and dish following the job. Each of the two square brackets has a large hole in the corner that looks like it's for use with a coach bolt. The man only fitted two bolts/ screws on each bracket and it looks very dodgy and I'm concerned that whatever fixing he used, it may not be going through the Permarock into the wall - Permarock is not designed to be load bearing.
Could I have some advice on the best fixings to fix the brackets to the wall please? The holes in the bracket are too large for even a No 12 screw as I see it and I can't see how I could insert some sort of wall plug into the brick through the Permarock without damaging the Permarock. A coach bolt would need a plug too. I've seen sleeve anchors that Window installers use but the head of the screw in the fixing is too small for the hole and I don't really want to use washers. Besides, I don't know if they would take the weight. I want to do the job myself rather than get the man back, and Sky would charge me to do the job.
Thank you
Answers
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First off, well done for installing something like this. External insulation is a good way to go.
This isn't going to be easy. Well, put it this way, the fixing should be easy, but the potential for making a mess of the cladding is rather high.
Sleeve Anchors - no problem with "head" size. Use anchors with a "hex" (spanner) type head.
I would suggest at least 150mm long. That would give a grip length of about 60mm. Given a decent, smooth hole, that should be enough.
The trouble is, after you've drilled the hole, there's no way of inspecting it to see if there's any crumbling or whatever. Maybe even go as far as using 200mm anchors. A 200mm could be used to fix a 100mm thickness to masonry, so it would make more sense here.
You'd need a drill bit of at least 250mm length. This would ensure the drill finds its way through the whole thickness of the brick.
Sleeve anchors can have M12 heads (12mm diameter bolt. ) Depending on your bracket holes, M10 may be enough.
It's going to take care for a clean job. However, your bracket has several holes, so no matter if one or two don't grip properly. Any one of these would be more than capable of holding a dish bracket.
Or................ maybe better still, self-tappers...................
Amazon.com User Recommendation
This isn't going to be easy. Well, put it this way, the fixing should be easy, but the potential for making a mess of the cladding is rather high.
Sleeve Anchors - no problem with "head" size. Use anchors with a "hex" (spanner) type head.
I would suggest at least 150mm long. That would give a grip length of about 60mm. Given a decent, smooth hole, that should be enough.
The trouble is, after you've drilled the hole, there's no way of inspecting it to see if there's any crumbling or whatever. Maybe even go as far as using 200mm anchors. A 200mm could be used to fix a 100mm thickness to masonry, so it would make more sense here.
You'd need a drill bit of at least 250mm length. This would ensure the drill finds its way through the whole thickness of the brick.
Sleeve anchors can have M12 heads (12mm diameter bolt. ) Depending on your bracket holes, M10 may be enough.
It's going to take care for a clean job. However, your bracket has several holes, so no matter if one or two don't grip properly. Any one of these would be more than capable of holding a dish bracket.
Or................ maybe better still, self-tappers...................
Amazon.com User Recommendation
Thank you very much The Builder, you've certainly given me some options to think about. When I said sleeve anchors, I was stupidly thinking of window anchors, the type that come with a long screw attached, but I can see now that they probably wouldn't take the weight. "Proper" sleeve anchors might well do the job.
Those self tapping bolts also look a possibility and I've come across some called Thunderbolt masonry concrete anchors. I just wonder if the Thunderbolts are less likely to exert less mechanical stress in
the brick. I fear the conical end of a sleeve anchor cracked the brick during fixing, I wouldn't be able to see it at that depth!
Those self tapping bolts also look a possibility and I've come across some called Thunderbolt masonry concrete anchors. I just wonder if the Thunderbolts are less likely to exert less mechanical stress in
the brick. I fear the conical end of a sleeve anchor cracked the brick during fixing, I wouldn't be able to see it at that depth!
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