Thin And Stiff Board For Tiling Onto?

[spacechimp]

All the plaster has come off when removing old tiles. I don't want to wait for new plaster to dry, so can I glue something to the exposed brick and then tile onto that? Only trouble is it needs to be as close as possible to flush with the surrounding plaster (ca 5mm deep). Any recommended solution? Thanks

[Dizmo]

I wouldn't suggest gluing to brickwork, having said that I also wouldn't suggest using wood either as it may get damp and swell. Personally I'd just plaster it but I understand you can't wait for it to dry.

Marine plywood would be the best bet if you're going to use wood but I'd secure it by screws (plugged).

TheBuilder might have a more conventional/easier solution but if you want a quick fix done straight away then I can't see of another alternative.

[Old_Geezer]

Sounds awful. Possible flexible thin card you hope will stay on the wall; and tile to it ?

I'd recommend patience.

[spacechimp]

If you'd seen the standard of my plastering you would understand ;-)

[spacechimp]

Why does it sound awful? New houses are plasterboard on external walls now ;-)

[Dizmo]

spacechimp: You're going to be tiling over it anyway so it doesn't need to be amazing just adequate.

[BRIGHT SPARK]

Google Hardi backer board.Its 12mm thick so you will have to cover complete walls. It can be fixed with stainless steel screws and /or plasterboard adhesive.Its cement based and so perfect for wet areas.

[Old_Geezer]

Yes plasterboard is awful too. Done be inadequate platerers who haven't learnt to do the job properly. I still recall the horror of discovering what dry lining meant AFTER I had a job done, and afterwards changing bits of it myself so it wasn't so dodgy. I cold not bring myself to pull it all down and do the job properly. But that aside, plasterboard isn't really the same thing. I'd not call that thin really, and it is on batons normally. Your surrounding plaster is 5mm and so you'd be putting it directly on the wall. If you can not plaster, get someone in to do a good job.

[Old_Geezer]

BY
!!!!
Like I typed and proof read a number of times !

[Old_Geezer]

COULD
!!!!
Like I typed and proof read a number of times !

[spacechimp]

With respect, Old Geezer, apart from the walls being truer and offering better insulation, how can you even tell without knocking on plasterboard that it's 'awful'? Anyway, I freely admit that I am an inadequate plasterer, so the choice is between hopelessly bumpy plaster and nice, flat board.

Definitely not doing the whole wall, Bright Spark

[The Builder]

A couple if ideas, Spacer............

"Masterboard" or similar brand. Inert and unaffected by damp. Quite expensive, and usually used in fireproofing situations. Various thicknesses including 6mm (may even be 5.5mm)

Also... cement fibre soffit board (usually used as the flat bit on the underside of your roof...... between the fascia board and the wall.)

http://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/pitched-roofing/pitched-roofing-1/non-asbestos-undercloaking-strips-1200-x150-pack-of-10.html

Various thicknesses again, including down to 3.2mm. The widest I've come across is 300mm. You may have to use several.

Both ideas are available from any Builders' Merchants.

Glue to wall if it's a cavity construction. If a solid wall and you're not sure about damp, then just nail or screw.

Also, as per Bright Spark's post................. a 6mm version..........

http://www.travisperkins.co.uk/p/hardibacker-250-tile-backing-board-1200-x-800-x-6mm/682191/3893473

[Old_Geezer]

It is awful because it isn't done properly, it is a cover up. I hated the plastic light boxes plugged into the plasterboard holes that I found. The idea is not to have something that superficially looks ok, maybe. Either something is done properly, and true, or it is not. The fact you can tell by tapping it, is just more annoyance on top.