bmw sounds like a diesel

[top_driver]

bmw e46 323i iv been trying to
figure out why it sounds so
rough and loud, its response and
acceleration not the best what
could it be

[ChuckFickens]

Vanos rattle at a guess.

[ChuckFickens]

p.s.

I've got a E46 325ci and I'm really glad mine doesn't have all the problems you seem to have!

[top_driver]

wanna swap, ha, noise seems to be coming from intake manifold engine side

[ChuckFickens]

Does it sound like this?

If so you need the vanos rattle kit...

[ChuckFickens]

Could be the DISA too.... unplug it and see if it goes away.

[ChuckFickens]

Damn youtube links not working....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9z9WrsVk_6o

[top_driver]

not quite the same, i dnt hear a rattle sound, it a similar sound as if exhaust had a crack mixed with sound of diesel

[ChuckFickens]

Have you got the recommended oil in it? (the best bet is genuine OEM BMW oil, it's not that expensive)

With the wrong oil M52 and M54 engines are prone to Vanos rattle.

I'd also suggest changing the oil twice as often as the service interval suggests... so about every 7500miles.

[top_driver]

it has 5 w 30 in it mobil, i myte fire it up have a listen bt no real noise coming from vanos area

[ChuckFickens]

If it's vanos it will only rattle as you rev it a little.

[top_driver]

i have made a video of the sound i will put up as soon as possible

[Toureman]

Why don't you try here............

http://forums.bimmerf...php?searchid=24146760

[TWR]

Benny, just a tip mate,when doing a service yourself on your car, start with a filter, fuel filter, NGK Spark Plugs ( BKR6EK) Synthetic Oil (5W.40) do not cut corners with this type of Engine, although the plugs are Pre-set, check them, Mine is an Auto so the Oil is life time, yours & the rear axle, use recommended, ( That is if you are going to fully service the car, Axe belts, check them for cracks & change if necessary, yours is on a Cam Chain, no pr obs there, Tyre's 30psi including your spare, & check the valve after inserting the air for air loss, Tyre threads, check them all ( 5) I am not implying in any way that you are not up to it, but Jeeps you don't half get some problems, I drop my oil Filter etc twice an year! why? its cheaper to change the filters, oil rather than change the engine.

[top_driver]

i use the 5 w 30 oil, will be changing oil separator valve and one of the cracked pipes, new ngk plugs are fittied

[TWR]

When taking the top off, check your coil pack for cracks Top, you have to look at this very closely, also, check that the bolts holding the pack in place! has someone in the past over tightened the pack causing cracks to happen? check there is a good connection at the plugs, within the lead there is a clip that connects to your plugs, make sure that is tight, Use new plugs, as with new they should be right, I think I've mentioned this before to you, drop a container of Wynn's Injector cleaner into a full tank of fuel & go for a good run to clear the system, I take it you will have changed the filters including the Fuel filter? it's under the N/S & in-line with your N/S door, but you need a ramp etc to get at it, ( Think safety when doing this) check all your connections A/M/Filter. if all else fails, get the car Dio tested.

[top_driver]

i changed plugs and coils, no misfires now on computer, i tighten coils fairly tight, i changed the fuel filter as-well

[top_driver]

would i be able to check for cracks with a small magnifying glass

[TWR]

Yes, but you should be able to see them visually Top. there are 12 bolts holding the pack in it's place, check the area one by one, whatever you do, DO NOT TAKE THE PLUGS OUT WHILST DOING THIS> otherwise one of the bolts may drop to the piston, add some copper grease to the plug threads when re-inserting.

[top_driver]

i do not intend on taking the plugs out, but are you saying i need to unbolt the coils, that's what i'm planning on doing anyway

[top_driver]

what would i have to do if a bolt fell into cylinder