Car Battery

[237SJ]

Yesterday I came to drive back from Christmas away and my battery was as flat as a pancake. The day before, I had driven around some country lanes and before that, I had done about 150 miles on a dual carriageway (Christmas Eve). Nothing electrical had been left switched on. The car had been sitting in the cold weather for a couple of days but that is the norm for my car. After a quick blast with the jump leads, the car started perfectly. Today I set out to go and get another battery but when I got in the car, it started fine first time so I hesitated. I know I can get it tested but after watching Watchdog and the RAC episode, I`m a bit hesitant to trust anybody. Should I just go out and buy a battery as I don`t understand how a battery can be flat but still be good for a bit more use.

[Arrods]

Funny things batteries, in my non-expert experience. My 13-year old original in from new car was still going strong when the car was scrapped. My current 6-year old battery from new car has just expired. Had no reason to suspect the garage's view that the battery was charging OK but was quickly losing its charge (evidenced by the fact that I had to charge the battery frequently).

[TWR]

237, This weather is the try'er for any battery's, & this is the weather they will fail, what year, make is the car & CC ( Engine Size) this could detmine the size of a battery needed, I recommed a Heavy Duty for lasting Life, they sell for about £50>>£70, do not use K.F. they may recommend you need a new set of tyres knowing them.

[237SJ]

It`s a 1600cc engine. I had the car from new (5 years ago). I had a 1700cc Ford Puma from new and I had it for 14 years until it was scrapped and I only ever had one change of battery. I know that in the old days, the HT leads could be a bit "iffy" in the damp weather but I haven`t had any problems like that for years.

[Clanad]

At the very least, take a close look at the battery terminals, if the battery is in a convenient location for observation. See if there's substantial corrosion on the negative terminal (the black one, at least here in the U.S.). If so, a good cleaning with a stiff wire brush and a bottle of Seven-Up soft drink will do the job!

Simply disconnect the terminal and give the terminal itself, as well as the now disconnected lead, a good soaking with the Seven-Up and (dressed in really old clothiers and rubber gloves) brush the terminal and lead thoroughly. Reconnect, after applying Vaseline (or other brand) grease to the terminal and lead (protects from future corrosion). Assure the attachment bolt and nut are securely tightened.

If there was substantial corrosion ( a bluish white powder surrounding the terminal) you might also check the lower end of the terminal where it attaches to the car for grounding and see if it's also corroded.

Some cars corrode worse than others and some don't corrode at all… but it's not uncommon. The corrosion temporarily causes a condition where the electricity won't flow but may seem to correct itself when attaching the leads from the battery charger you used…

Best of luck!

[Zacs-Master]

Nackered alternator.

[Clanad]

Forgot to add, that if you're doing this job yourself, eye protection is de rigueur!

[EDDIE51]

Happy New Year Clanad, we don't seem to hear much from you recently.
Sorry to sidetrack the thread 237SJ.

[Clanad]

Thanks, Eddie! Happy New Year to you and yours...

[Hymie]

In the olden days a vehicle battery would give ample warning that it was on the way out – with the engine cranking slower and slower before it started.

I’ve heard from a number of friends and colleagues that one day their battery is fine, the next dead as a door nail.

I believe that there are two main reasons for this, the first is that modern cars with fuel injectors rather than a carburettor, start much more readily (making much less of a demand on the battery), and battery technology resulting in good performance until its final demise.

Before splashing out on a new battery, check that with the engine running that the battery voltage is close to 14V (not 12V). A possible reason for a flat battery is a faulty component (such as a glove compartment switch) resulting in a light being permanently on, discharging the battery.

For less than £30 you can buy a combined multimeter/DC current clamp – allowing you to measure the battery voltage and charge/discharge current; an essential piece of equipment for any motorist.

[lankeela]

After getting away with it all last winter I finally had to replace my battery a few weeks ago when we had the first cold spell. They tested it and it was only running at about 30%. Next cold spell it again took a bit of starting, so I think its the glow plugs (diesel van) that need replacing as well.

[Baldric]

A few years back Mrs B went up to Norwich from Kent in a car we had never had a problem with. Stopped in Newmarket for a coffee and car wouldn't restart. Greenflag said battery focked, dead cell, jumpstarted it which got her to Norwich, she replaced battery next day, no more probs.

[bhg481]

I drive round with one of these stuck in my 12V socket

Amazon.co.uk User Recommendation

It should read 13.5+ volts under normal driving; if not the alternator is faulty. You won't get many things as cheap as that which are car-associated.

Batteries lose their ability to hold charge as they age, hence your car failing to start after a few days but fine the next day after a good run. It will get worse. The battery is 5 years old, chances are it's had its day. Nearly any garage will test it free without obligation to buy a new one from them.